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Jeff Britt
most recent 21 AUG SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 4 JAN 10 by Jeff Britt
It would be interesting to know more about the discovery of this rose. It certainly doesn't look like a tea, but it's hard to know what to think based on only a photograph.
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Reply #1 of 2 posted 4 JAN 10 by Cass
I agree. Doesn't look like a Tea based on the leaf shape, although it could be an early HT.
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Reply #2 of 2 posted 21 AUG by Michael Garhart
Only the blooms look tea-like to me, and some of the stems. The foliage looks heavily "Old French OGR" descended. It looks mixed indica/ogr to me, too.

Is it possible that another rose is being circulated as the original?
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most recent 16 AUG SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 24 JUN 07 by Unregistered Guest
Dornroschen defoliated 80% due to rust in Central Coast CA area. It was a beautiful rose, and that first flush each year was fantastic - but it is long gone.
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Reply #1 of 8 posted 27 MAY 09 by Jeff Britt
Thank you for your post. You probably just saved me the same disappointment you experienced. Rust doesn't seem to be a big problem in most parts of the US, but it's a big, big problem in coastal California. It certainly has been the major cause of the death or removal of roses in my garden. We hear a lot about blackspot on HMF, and also mildew, but very little about rust unless its from a coastal California gardener. I know blackspot can be horribly disfiguring but I don't think it often kills a plant. Mildew is ugly, but doesn't kill. Rust is stealthy and can be lethal. And the worst part of it is, that when folks talk about disease resistance, they're usually talking about blackspot and mildew, not rust. I have encountered any number of roses described as disease resistant that were martyrs to rust. That's why comments here about susceptibility to rust are so welcome. Thanks again!
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Reply #2 of 8 posted 14 AUG by Michael Garhart
A lot of North American Briar species are prone to rust. This rose was bred in the 1960s, so it was among the first of its kind, where ideas like rust were not at the forefront of a breeders mind.
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Reply #3 of 8 posted 14 AUG by Patricia Routley
So, looking at the parentage tree, which rose would be eliminated - if we were breeding Dornroschen again
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Reply #4 of 8 posted 15 AUG by Michael Garhart
There are many ways to crack an egg. Could use more modern, more compact large-flowered types, with no known lineage proneness to rust, and use Rosa acicularis again. Then selecting out the rush and other ailments vigorously, while also testing for cold hardiness. The other route would be to replace Rosa acicularis with another known cold hardy species. There are a handful to select from. Rosa rugosa can also produce rust, among a few others, but there are some sub-polar rose species that do not.

One thing is that rust resistance still isn't something there is a lot of information on. Maybe research of other plant genera could help, which is more likely to exist (like malva family, for example).
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Reply #5 of 8 posted 15 AUG by Patricia Routley
Aha - the word from an eggspurt. Thanks Michael. In my wet-winter, dry-summer, acid soil, own-root garden, I have only ever noted rust on 'Sachsengruss' and 'Rubaiyat'. I have never noted rust on these three that are said to be susceptible: 'Agnes', 'Constance Spry' or 'Sarah van Fleet'.
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Reply #6 of 8 posted 15 AUG by Michael Garhart
Does Agnes defoliate from BS there? It does here :[ Yeah, rugosa hybrids can be prone. A lot of the pre-1950s damask red types can be, too. I **believe** Playboy got its susceptibility from the Spartan line, which is prone (just like Electron is), which came from the Fashion line, which came from the *drum rolllll* Crimson Glory line.

Easy to bred out, I believe. I had had perfectly fine Playboy hybrids, growing in malva weeds galore.
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Reply #7 of 8 posted 16 AUG by Patricia Routley
I think 'Agnes' might defoliate a bit, but as we get a reasonable bit of spring rain, defoliation is a part of rose life here. As the weather dries out later on, the bushes put out new healthy leaves and they are set for summer. I never worry about a bit of black spot - auto correct plays hell with that last word. (I never worry about thorns either. I've just learnt to move slower and more carefully around roses. I am very well dressed out there with the roses: hat, gloves, long sleeves, thick trousers.)
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Reply #8 of 8 posted 16 AUG by Andrew from Dolton
My garden is horrendous for blackspot but 'Agnes' is one of my healthiest roses with no blackspot at all.
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most recent 16 JUL SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 15 JUN 09 by Jeff Britt
According to the Kordes website, Eliza is "absolutely free of diseases". That's quite a statement!
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Reply #1 of 2 posted 10 JUL by BarbaraG SE Virginia
Not in my garden. Beverly, Savannah, Dark Desire and South Africa have all shown impressive disease resistance in their first year in the garden. Eliza seems to have less resistance and also less vigor; maybe just not the right rose for hot, humid mid Atlantic 8A (coastal Virginia).
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Reply #2 of 2 posted 16 JUL by BarbaraG SE Virginia
Still on probation here. The only rose in my garden that has ever gotten mildew; it is covered.
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most recent 8 JUN SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 23 SEP 07 by wordycat
I bought this rose in the January this year and put it in a pot to see if I liked the color, I do and would like to put it in the ground this year. Does anyone know how big it grows? It appears to want to grow big and climb. I'm in zone 7, Northern Ca. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Reply #1 of 7 posted 12 MAY 08 by Rosaholic's Southern California Garden
It has been in the ground for about a year in my Zone 10 garden. Nice spreading habit, unlike other Austins around here that want to go straight up and bloom once at the top of one giant cane. Kind of a floppy habit actually, which I like. But the claim that the "average bloom" is 4" in diameter is wishful thinking. More like 3.
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Reply #2 of 7 posted 19 DEC 08 by Jeff Britt
Mine has been in the ground for 2 years, also in Zone 10. The first year it moped a bit, but has begun to send up some big new canes this year. Next year, I expect it will really take off. The flowers are lovely -- a true orange in the cool spring weather -- full of petals, but no way are they 4 inches. Three inches seems reasonable. The new growth is a lovely coppery bronze and looks great with the flowers. Rebloom has been very good indeed, but until a good scaffolding of larger canes are in place, I don't think I'm going to see the plant covered in flowers all at once. Instead, I have had to content myself with nearly continuous flowers, but only a few at a time. That is NOT a complaint.
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Reply #3 of 7 posted 8 JUN by mamabotanica
How did she do in hot zone 10 summer? And how big has she gotten? I'm also in zone 10 and love this rose.
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Reply #4 of 7 posted 8 JUN by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
Even in my zone 5a with winter-kill & plus I prune CPM below my knees early spring: As own-root CPM is a giant here and occupies at least 6 feet wide space, and throw 7 feet canes in late fall. Double the dimension and you'll get the space needed for warm zone with no winter-kill.
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Reply #5 of 7 posted 8 JUN by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
I also grow Lady of Shalott (on sale for $12 this June-week at Roses Unlimited). Lady of Shalott occupies much less space than CPM. CPM tends to fade to light yellow in hot sun, but Lady of Shalott retains its intense copper-orange, even in hot weather. Carding Mill is even smaller & compact as own-root, and it has this glorious copper/pink hue. Carding Mill is the most suitable for hot & dry weather, Lady of Shalott needs tons of rain to bloom well. My Carding Mill is like a mini-rose, 1 ' x 1' as own-root, so it will be 2' x 2' for hot climate as own-root.
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Reply #6 of 7 posted 8 JUN by mamabotanica
I have carding mill. Got it as a 5 gallon from a local nursery, planted less than a month ago and it's already 2 x 2. I think it's going to get bigger here. I bought Lady of Shalott for my moms house (20 minutes away). Still hasn't flowered when my bare roots have been flowering for months. I bet it's not getting enough water. I'll let her know! It looks like I'm getting six roses from Roses unlimited.
Barbra Streisand (didn't even want a purple flowered rose but found a spot where I absolutely NEED her! :)
Bronze Star
Folklore
Versigny
Voodoo
Medallion
Most I already had on my list but I'm going to have to figure out where to squeeze in Versigny and Bronze star.
Thanks for the tip!
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Reply #7 of 7 posted 8 JUN by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
Lady of Shalott gave me hell as 1st-year-own root, I kept moving it around 3 times since it failed to flower in the best potting soil & tons of acidic rain. It has those skinny & tiny leaves (typical of multiflora). That rose needs LOAMY and loose soil & SOLUBLE fertilizer, high in potassium & calcium, NPK 8-20-40, plus soluble gypsum. Lady of Shalott doesn't liked dense heavy clay, nor dense & wet peat moss in potting soil. Multiflora is a hairy cluster root, and can't handle dense soil like the woody-stick of Dr.Huey rootstock.

Second year Lady of Shalott finally produce buds, after I fed it well with MG-fertilizer, plus extra sulfate of potash & gypsum to pump out blooms. We are in a dry spell, 3 weeks of no rain, but it's pumping out blooms.

Congratulations on your choices. Versigny and Bronze star are best in pots (with Moisture-control-potting soil ... both are waterhogs and need a huge amount of SOLUBLE fertilizer to pump out the many petals in Versigny, and the large 7 inch. bloom of Bronze Star. Both will remain small as own-root as long as you keep NPK 8-20-40 to force it to bloom. I give NPK 20-20-20 for pots until they are big enough (like Miracid), then I switch to NPK 8-20-40 to control the size and to force more blooms. Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is given weekly to de-salt the salty chemicals, calcium is necessary to form leaves, stem, and flowers.
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