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greg
most recent 11 MAY 10 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 11 MAY 10 by greg
Simply exquisite. Understated blooms are always my personal favorite. Thanks for the wonderful photo.
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 11 MAY 10 by Marina's Garden. Crawfordville, FL
Dear Greg and Jay-Jay,
Thank you very much for your kind comments. This rugosa is amazing - I've never seen roses of this color. The velvety petals are captivating.
Even wood, if you make a cut, is of light purple color!!! Simply beautiful.
Marina
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most recent 22 MAR 10 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 21 MAR 10 by Cass
I also wonder whether this is a hybrid or an intergraded species. The buds resemble R. clinophylla but the leaflets have such a different shape, including the extra long terminal leaflet. The prickles remind me of the Synstylae. R. clinophylla has really distinct stipules. I'm curious about this rose's stipules. Also, what do you think about the fragrance?
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Reply #1 of 6 posted 21 MAR 10 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Fragrance is definitely much different than clinophylla. I'll try today and see if there is anything I can think of to compare it to.
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 21 MAR 10 by greg
" hybrid or an intergraded species."
What is meant by Intergraded species or is it integrated?
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 21 MAR 10 by Cass
Where species habitats overlap, roses that can hybridize can consistently produce hybrids of a predictable type. This is thought to occur, for example, in the UK with species of the Caninae section. It may also occur in the USA where the ranges of Rosa arkansans and Rosa woodsii overlap. So as Rosa arkansana approaches the range of Rosa woodsii, the appearance of some Rosa arkansana (and maybe its genetics!) can change as it hybridizes with Rosa woodsii. Think of weaving the finger of both hands together with your hands flat. The area where your fingers meet is the overlapping range. In that range, the species intergrade, with greater incidence of hybrids. By analogy, think of a continuum, each end with two different species. Towards the middle are the hybrids of the two species. I'm sure in actually it is much more messy, but there seems to be some good evidence of this.
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 21 MAR 10 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Very messy. As you know, I would argue there are few, if any, absolutes. Have you noted the specimen I have here doesn't match many historical descriptions?
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 21 MAR 10 by Cass
I think the description by Lindley is pretty good. I can't see all the details in your photos, of course.
-"Branches densely villous" (can't tell if they are bristles or hairs, but I clearly see two kinds of armature on the canes.)
-"Prickles ...by pairs under the stipulae, straight" (can't tell if they are paired; Prickles are definitely straight.)
-"Stipulae villous...segments..sparingly fringed with glands" (haven't seen detail of stipules)
-"Petioles downy " (seems likely because the buds and receptacles look downy)
-"Leaflets 7 ...very shining..naked on both sides (leaflet count wrong; I see 9, 5. Upper surface appears moderately shiny considering the standards of the day)
-Bracts are entire (some look entire, can't see all)
-"sepals, which are nearly simple, and shorter than the petals, woolly" (looks right)
-"Flowers cymose; bracreate at some distance from the calyx" (I see clusters and bracts.)
-"Petals and other parts of the fructification appear to be the same as those of R. bracteata." ( I think so. Compare these two:
http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.115961
http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.74001
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Reply #6 of 6 posted 22 MAR 10 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
I trust that Viru's identification is correct. Lindley's description seems closest. Of course species are variable in the wild.

This clone collected at Mt. Abu is growing a long way from home and under very different conditions to which it is native.

I can tell you this, it's vigorous in my climate to the extreme.
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most recent 10 JAN 10 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 17 SEP 07 by Judith C.
Is there any way of making the stems stronger? I've tried pruning hard, feeding ... Or does one just have to accept blooms that face the ground? Thank you for any tips!!
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Reply #1 of 12 posted 17 SEP 07 by Cass
Judith, weak necks are one of my frequent complaints with Austin roses. The options are several. You've tried the hard prune. Now try the oppsite: prune no more the 3 D's: remove only the dead, diseased and distracting wood. It amounts to a good deadheading and cleanup at winter pruning time. Let the plant reach full height and then cycle through the basals to remove entire canes on a yearly basis to renew the wood.

If you're a short person like myself, weak necks aren't so terrible on a rose at chest height or higher if the bush is well-clothed in beautiful foliage. On a 3 foot plant, though, I find it objectionable. And on a wraith with spiny legs, I wave the secateurs at it when I walk by. I don't grow Pat Austin, but playing with pruning --and not pruning-- is something I do frequently.
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Reply #2 of 12 posted 17 SEP 07 by Judith C.
Thanks for the reply, Cass. Actually I'm quite tall ... so I can't look at the blooms from down below!! This afternoon I was wondering whether to pull the rosebush out and replace it with all the hundreds I'd like to have space for! But I suppose it's not fair on Pat Austin - I do get lots of blooms - so I'll have another go - your second method. It's the only Austin rosebush I've got ... and will be the last, I think.
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Reply #3 of 12 posted 17 SEP 07 by Cass
Don't let me stop you from applying the ultimate sanction, Judith. I've axed more roses than most people grow in a lifetime. I don't publish the roses I grow until they've earned a place in the garden.
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Reply #4 of 12 posted 18 SEP 07 by Judith C.
Yes, you're probably right, Cass ... may well 'apply the ultimate sanction'!! Thanks!
Does everyone have a 'problem' with Pat Austin, or is it only me??
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Reply #5 of 12 posted 18 SEP 07 by jedmar
Our Pat Austin also has drooping blooms, so that we had to photograph them lying almost on the ground. But now, in its third year, it has made some longer canes and the blooms are looking at me and even upwards! No special treatment, except the occasional coffee-grounds and banana peels...
Give Pat a chance.
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Reply #6 of 12 posted 18 SEP 07 by Judith C.
Ah, right! So there is some hope! Thanks, Jedmar! Coffee grounds ... plenty of those ... I'll start putting them to one side.
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Reply #9 of 12 posted 18 SEP 07 by Judith C.
Oh dear, Jedmar! I've just looked up when I planted Pat Austin! This IS its third year ... We've just had a little rain, and all the other rosebushes look happy and bright ... all except dear Pat! Looking so miserable, all the blooms bent over ...
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Reply #11 of 12 posted 9 JAN 10 by Jay-Jay
When I read Your reply, I think "Pat Austin" needs a lot of potassium (Kalium) Because of the coffeegrind and the bananapeels(-organic I would recommend because of the fungicides conventially used as preservatives!) And a layer of good ripe compost partially cultivated into the toplayer of Your soil.
Gr. Jay- Jay.
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Reply #7 of 12 posted 18 SEP 07 by greg
Your refrence to the three D's as dead, diseased and distracting is interesting I have never heard it explained that way before. It's always been dead , diseased and dying but I think this is more informative. It,s the truth that you never stop learning, I'm going to use this from now on if it,s not copywrited thanks.

Greg Holmes
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Reply #8 of 12 posted 18 SEP 07 by Cass
Greg, I belong to a group of old garden rose lovers (ogres) who have studied the pruning of Tea roses. We have decided that the best way to describe the way to prune young Teas to gardeners whose thinking has been influenced by years and years of growing modern Hybrid Teas and Floribundas is with the 3 D's. You're probably right that the better terminology is dead, diseased and dying, but we like to give people a little leeway to remove the errant cane here and there while discouraging the removal of twiggy growth. I personally know when a aged cane has used up all the bud eyes and when its removal is necessary, but you would be astonished how many think the cure in such a case is to shorten the cane rather than to remove it altogether - - once again, thinking influenced by growing moderns, probably budded.

If I can convince gardeners that pruning is training, not cutting for the sake of cutting, I will have done one good thing for The Rose. Some roses need to feel the steel, others need to build large structures on their own terms and dictate which wood is removed. Some gardeners have a natural feel for these differences, while others never notice and have beautiful gardens all the same.
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Reply #10 of 12 posted 19 NOV 07 by greg
This is late getting to back to you, but thanks, you always give good advice. Season after season I keep learning more and it s great to be involved. All my new purchases I am letting them grow for a least three years before prunnig to see what they really look like. I read this in one of Paul Bardens articals and seemed a practical approach. Again thanks Cass.
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Reply #12 of 12 posted 10 JAN 10 by Jeff Britt
I should be surprised if there is ANY solution to Pat Austin's drooping flowers.

My solution to the problem was simple. It involved a shovel and the compost pile. No secateurs required. I've never regretted it either. Not all pretty roses are worth the trouble and frustration.
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most recent 23 OCT 09 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 23 OCT 09 by Pascale Hiemann
This mushroom (armillaria mellea?) is growing in one of my rosebeds. I read it is a dangerous parasite for trees. Will it also cause diseases in my rosebeds?
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Reply #1 of 2 posted 23 OCT 09 by greg
Mushrooms in the soil is a good indicator of a healthy soil. You could try putting this question to the fungus experts at this site http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/forums/
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Reply #2 of 2 posted 23 OCT 09 by Pascale Hiemann
Thank you very much for the fast answer.
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