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Discussion id : 96-174
most recent 11 MAR 21 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 4 DEC 16 by Andrew from Dolton
Does anyone know a a way I can try and reduce the amount of black spot in my garden? I live in the bottom of a valley where there are low night temperatures in summer and heavy dews. In the U.K. we don't have a Continental climate with long summers and winters with short springs and autumns. Spring can start in February but still go on until the end of May, likewise, autumn can start in August but we still can get warm weather in November. There is usually high rain fall throughout the year and frosts in June and August are not uncommon. Certain roses grow very well, Gallicas, Damasks, Albas and certain species crosses like x 'Highdownensis' grow very well. Others, like 'Compassion', 'Iceburg' and most David Austin roses struggle to thrive and after the first year gradually become poorer. Almost every rose I grow gets black spot to some degree although I have never experienced any type of mildew or rust. Even the wild populations of Rosa arvensis are almost defoliated with this disease. I also believe there are issues with trace elements in the soil. It is a slightly acid well drained loam. The heavy rain fall we experience has I believe deluded the soil of certain elements like boron. I am experimenting with dressing the soil with borax and lime this winter. Every spring I give the roses a dressing of fish, blood and bone, I also mulch with my home made compost and chicken manure pellets added. I am fastidious with collecting up the diseased leaves which I burn. For next season I want to plan a structured spay programme which ideally should be as organic as possible but this is not set in stone. Any suggestions other members have would be greatly be appreciated, thank you.
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Reply #1 of 7 posted 5 DEC 16 by Jay-Jay
sent You a PM.
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Reply #2 of 7 posted 23 DEC 16 by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
Andrew: Google "Organic rose" and you'll see Organic Rose Growing - Gardenweb, where I posted info. on trace-elements to fight blackspots and to neutralize acidic rain. Red-lava-rock is high in potassium and boron, pea-gravel rocks is high in magnesium & calcium. Wood-ash is high in trace-elements, pH over 12.
I gardened in both acidic clay and alkaline clay. Last house of acidic clay & roses grafted on Dr.Huey: it was a BS-fest. Present house of alkaline clay: Dr.Huey likes it alkaline, so much less. 99% of my roses are own-roots .. the own-roots like it acidic when they are tiny-babies, but as they get older, depending on their genetics, their roots get woody like Romantica roses, and certain Austins (I listed all the info. which own-roots like acidic and which ones like alkaline in Organic rose).

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4114089/mineral-nutrient-deficiency-and-secret-to-health-and-antifungal-trace-e?n=44

For less blackspots, I focus on making the soil below loamy & fluffy for best potassium up-take, then I use a buffer on top to neutralize acidic rain. The buffer could be dolomitic lime (calcium & magnesium), red-lava (potassium & boron), colorful-pea-gravel (variety of alkaline minerals), wood-ash (high in boron and zinc), and black-peat-humus (nitrogen & magnesium & calcium).

Since HMF doesn't allow me to post more than one links, I'll put the links in my main HMF-profile as to which OWN-ROOT like it acidic, and which OWN-ROOT like it alkaline, plus what's the best soil & pH-level for different types of rootstock.
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Reply #3 of 7 posted 9 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
very helpful, thank you.
Have you removed the post in your link, I'm just getting an error indication
{Cannot GET /discussions/4114089/mineral-nutrient-deficiency-and-secret-to-health-and-antifungal-trace-e}
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Reply #6 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
If You wish "Peter de Wolf", I might send You the same PM, as I wrote to Andrew, in which I describe a home-made cure, that is used too in Winschoten Rosarium against blackspot.
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Reply #7 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
Thank you, please do, I have to get prepared before I have to deal with it.
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Reply #4 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by MADActuary
I am no expert but I have observed that blackspot seems to start on the bottom leaves. I try to remove the bottom 10 to 12 inches of leaves once the plant is established well. You might also try a very hard pruning to "start over" when you start your new spray regimen in the future.
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Reply #5 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
I observed that in climbers blackspot started meters high. The spores can travel through air.

When it starts from below, it is likely, that it starts from spores that came from infected rose-leaves, that dropped on the soil, or stayed on the plant from a previous growing season. And rain spattering from the soil might do the rest of the trick.
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