HelpMeFind Roses, Clematis and Peonies
Roses, Clematis and Peonies
and everything gardening related.
Site ChangesPhotosPlant IntroductionsReviews & CommentsMember JournalsPlantsPlant References 
Recent Gardening Journal Entries
  • All / Any
  • Plant specific
  • Everyone's (public) journal entries
  • My journal
  • My favorite member journals
  • Private member group journals
  • Newest first
List customization using the above LIST OPTIONS feature is an advanced feature available to premium-membership members and sponsor listings.
27 FEB
Today I am reporting on February 27, 2018 that my roses are cut back for the season, some hurt from the winter freeze - which was an unusually cold one. Despite this cold snap - which took one bush and caused us to cut back a lot on many of them - my roses are putting out new growth - some 4 inches long on all of my hybrids, and DA roses. The climbers are absolutely covered in green. We have had 80 degree weather the last few days with a cool day yesterday and today. My roses are hopefully in for a great year! I am worried about having another cold snap that kills these beautiful light green and red shoots. Also - wondering when to start spraying and fertilizing!
26 FEB
Because of the weather, I'm a bit reluctant to get the roseseeds out of the fridge and sow them. In fact that is nonsense because I sow them inside the house in a cool room.
25 FEB
Foliage vs soil type/climate preference guide
Evelyn as own-root blooms welll in alkaline clay soil with healthy & glossy foliage. The repeat is fast, it lasts 4 to 5 days in the vase, if cut in bud-form. The petals are thick, so Evelyn withstands 100 degrees summer heat. The bush throws out spreading octopus canes and needs a lot of room even as own-root. The scent is floral peach. Very healthy as own-root in my dolomitic heavy clay. Blooms well if pruned back drastically.
Lavenderlace: Evelyn with large & dark green & glossy foliage blooms great with my alkaline soil & water for the past 6 years as own-root. It blooms even more once I made my clay more loamy (mix in pine-bark). I also fix my alkaline tap water with sulfate of potash & gypsum to prevent thin & weak stems.

Received 8 roses today 6/15 from Roses Unlimited Summer sale: Madame Earnest Calvat (pale & large leaves), James Galway (pale & large leaves), The Dark Lady (small leaves, medium-green, many blooms), The Squire (larger & DARK GREEN leaves, many blooms), Marie Daly (PALE tiny leaves, lots of buds), Anna's promise (medium-green leaves), Twilight Zone (almost thornless, medium-green, LARGE & thick leaves), Sutter's Gold (pale, very large, glossy leaves, zero blooms).

Marie Daly and the Dark Lady both have small & pale leaves, means I have to make my soil loamy & fast-draining. Marie Daly is an Earthkind & drought-tolerant rose and The Dark Lady has Rugosa heritage.

My code for OWN-ROOT roses: PALE LEAVES prefer loamy soil & acidic rain. DARK-GREEN prefer heavy/alkaline clay GLOSSY: best with partial shade & wet & need more solid minerals. TINY LEAVES prefer loamy & drought-tolerant (species). LARGE LEAVES = vigorous & deep root. THICK LEAVES = heat tolerant.

My Prediction: the pale ones with zero blooms will need added sulfate of potash & gypsum to fix alkaline tap water. Tiny leaves is best in loamy/sandy soil. The large leaves (Madame and James and Sutter's Gold) will have deep & big & vigorous root. The dark-green leaves The Squire and medium-green Anna's promise will bloom well in my heavy clay.

Large, thick, pale leaves but less-thorn Twilight Zone: I hope it doesn't have multiflora genetics (needs acidic rain & cool). I already had Mary Daly before: needs loamy soil & acidic rain, thanks to its VERY PALE & tiny leaves. Sutter's gold leaves are pale, but LARGER & THICKER than Bronze Star, so it'll be deeper root & heat-tolerant. Bronze Star was a big water-hog & could not bloom unless 24/7 rain. Sutter' Gold has glossy leaves, best in partial shade.
© 2018