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'Madame Alfred Carrière' rose Reviews & Comments
Discussion id : 67-560
most recent 27 JAN 17 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 15 OCT 12 by kahlenberg
this rose turned out to be hardier than described, because it made it through last winter which was very severe here (-30 °). even some gallicas faded away.
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Reply #1 of 6 posted 9 FEB 13 by Chris
how has it done since?
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 10 FEB 13 by kahlenberg
very well, so far; all branches are still green, but winter is not over yet. try to get some pictures.
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 11 FEB 13 by Jay-Jay
I have to agree, over here it survived with flying colours lower temps than -20°C.
See my pictures of last year and last winter.
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 27 JAN 17 by Andrew from Dolton
It suffers from die-back in a cold U.K. winter such as 2010 when the temperature dropped to -18 in my location. We generally get cool wet summers that encourage sappy growth in climates with warmer drier summers plants can tolerate colder winter temperatures.
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 27 JAN 17 by Jay-Jay
Andrew, please take a look at this photo: http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.191847 Juicy as possible... and the photo's taken at later moments. Brown leaves, but like a Phoenix it came back, despite the similar climate as Yours.
Maybe You fertilized it with too much Nitrogen late in the season???
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Reply #6 of 6 posted 27 JAN 17 by Andrew from Dolton
Oh yes very much like that although there are far fewer leaves on my plant in winter. It is only in a very cold year that this happens. The problem in The U.K. is that being an island we don't have a continental climate with long summers and long winters. Spring can start in February and Winter can still be hanging around in May, the same in reverse happens in autumn. My garden increases this problem being in the bottom of a valley. Growing vegetables is difficult as there is quite a short growing season in 2007 I had a -3 frost on May 23rd. Frosts occur in June and September frequently, in 2015 there was a bloody frost in July! High rain fall in summer and constant heavy dew create the perfect conditions for blackspot although I have almost never seen any types of mildews or of rust. I don't feed any roses in open ground after the beginning of July but that does not stop weak and sappy growth continuing to grow throughout October and into November. But as you say, "like a phoenix" Madame Alfred always bounces back. It is always just about the first rose to start blooming and the last to finish. Although on average years I would estimate my garden to be zone 7 it is rather immaterial because winter can be so erratic, in 2015 we had a temperature of 14.5 as a night time low in December, a record warm temperature, in 2010 during the same period I woke to find crab claws of frost on my bathroom mirror!! I think die back also has something to do with mineral deficiencies in the soil, boron in particular, which I am attempting to correct and will write about my ideas on that matter in due course.
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Discussion id : 83-609
most recent 6 OCT 16 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 9 MAR 15 by Jay-Jay
This rose does very well in zone 6b too! It survived with flying colours some bad winters with temps as low as -20°C! In the description is mentioned 7b through 10b.
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Reply #1 of 6 posted 30 APR 16 by kysusan
Thanks for that, Jay-Jay . I saw zone 7B in the description and decided not to grow this, I'm in 6B. Now I'll give it a try.

My zone 7 roses froze this past winter. Deader than dead. Thanks again.
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 30 APR 16 by Jay-Jay
You're welcome Kysusan
Did You take a look at my photos of this rose that winter 2011-2012 + description?
We had a very warm winter that year (and still some roses had flowers) until the end of January and suddenly the temps plummeted. And a very cold period followed with low temps, lots of sun and no snow-cover.
...Then see the photos from February and how it recovered later that year.
PS: How is Your new garden doing? I only saw a photo of a barren field until now.
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 5 OCT 16 by kysusan
Jay-Jay, transforming nicely, thank you. It's more like a farming operation than garden, about 80 so far.
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 5 OCT 16 by Jay-Jay
Looking good... a good start for a real garden instead of "farmland".
It might need some height(backbone): (fruit-)trees and shrubs maybe?
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 6 OCT 16 by Give me caffeine
As the song says - "Trees are good, trees are good".

The garden is off to a good start by the look of it, but some variation in height and form is always nice, as is a bit of shade here and there. Unless, for some reason, you are after a rose specimen garden only.

The other good thing about trees is they can make good windbreaks for your roses. My block is too open at the moment (trees are currently babies) and I've had several roses end up on their ears.
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Reply #6 of 6 posted 6 OCT 16 by Jay-Jay
I'm not familiar with that song... will look it up.
The surroundings look(flat), as if the roses might need some windshield.
Good luck and happy labor!
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Discussion id : 83-608
most recent 24 MAR 16 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 9 MAR 15 by twinkletoad (zone 7B)
In 7B Piedmont North Carolina, my 4 year old "MAC" loses its leaves and blackspots terribly. The foliage is sparse, light green and not very healthy looking, even with regular feeding. I am going to give it one more season and then make a decision whether or not to keep it based on its performance. It's located in afternoon shade. Disappointing in my garden so far.
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Reply #1 of 14 posted 9 MAR 15 by Jay-Jay
Do You have some photo's of the plant?
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Reply #3 of 14 posted 10 MAR 15 by twinkletoad (zone 7B)
Thank you for your responses. I don't have any photos yet this year, but will post once the weather clears and I can take some. It is located along a fence and small arbor/entry structure with plenty of air circulation. I did some research yesterday rose care/ spray schedules (using Bayer Advanced Rose & Flower Disease Control and rotating with another type of spray). I think if I keep this rose it will require a very regimented spray schedule. I think I was feeding it enough last year but probably did not spray it enough (which I'd rather not have to do for various reasons). I don't think I mentioned that it also barely had any blooms.
In the mean time, I am considering what I would replace it with and so far thinking of Cl. Clotilde Soupert, which I hear balls in wet weather but I'd rather have that than no flowers or leaves!
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Reply #4 of 14 posted 10 MAR 15 by Jay-Jay
Hi,
I'm sorry to hear that it doesn't perform well for You.
If I may ask, did You or any-one else spray against weeds at that place?
I do not spray this rose at all, not even the environmental friendly solution, that I sometimes use.... and it performs superb at a not so optimal place. You might look-up the photo's of it.
As I'm a fan, I would recommend Étoile de Hollande Cl. Or the once flowering Erinnerung an Brod. But on HMF You might search and look-up one that might perform better and suits Your preferences.
I looked around over here in our town, when we started with roses and found some good performers.
Good luck.
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Reply #5 of 14 posted 10 MAR 15 by twinkletoad (zone 7B)
Thank you, Jay-Jay. No, I didn't use any chemicals on that part of my yard at all because the vegetable beds are in that area. That's a good thought, though. I do have some large trees fairly near, and though the rose isn't in the shade, I'm sure the tree roots are competing for water and nutrients. I will try to give her extra attention and see if that helps!
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Reply #6 of 14 posted 10 MAR 15 by Jay-Jay
Mine is standing near a very big oak too, and next to pavement... still no problem.
But extra care can't be wrong. The foliage always is a bit olive-green and it might take some years, before it really settles and flowers abundantly and more than once. I gave it as an extra boost home-made compost.

I asked for the weed-extermination, for friends of mine wondered, how it came, that their climbers performed so poor... The neighbours sprayed on a regular basis. Since the neighbours went, the climbers thrived again after a while.
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Reply #7 of 14 posted 11 MAR 15 by Patricia Routley
I too had an own root 'Mme. Alfred Carriere' planted in 1998 that never did all that well. Eventually it looked simply dreadful and most of the canes up top were dead and it was a sight I was simply ashamed of. So in 2011 I cut most of the canes right back to about one or two feet. About that time I started making an aerobic compost tea with a little fish tank bubbler and each morning I would take the bucket of tea out and give a rose a slurp of about one litre. I guess each rose received a slurp four times a year. Whether it was the pruning out of all the dead wood, or the compost tea, or at last really settling in, I cannot say for sure, but I do lean towards the compost making the difference. From 2012 it began to be really healthy and vigorous and I have been quite proud of this rose.
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Reply #8 of 14 posted 11 MAR 15 by Jay-Jay
Thank You Patricia.
Mine is bud-grafted and only old/dead branches are removed. Until now no other pruning.... and it's getting huge. Maybe compost or (aerobic?) compost tea does the trick.
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Reply #9 of 14 posted 11 MAR 15 by twinkletoad (zone 7B)
These have been helpful comments, thank you. I have a compost pile, but I have never made tea for the plants with it. How do you make yours, Patricia?
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Reply #10 of 14 posted 12 MAR 15 by Patricia Routley
I read of Michael Shoup's recipe for making compost tea (he swears by it), but I never wrote the recipe down. I bought a tiny fish tank air bubbler pump with a long piece of plastic piping and used a big garbage bin. I used to throw in:

Sheep compost (or any other compost) - Three trowels
Blood & bone - one trowel
Seaweed solution - a slurp
Sulphate of potash - one teaspoon
Compost Accelerator (Actizyme) tablet - three
Molasses - a slurp
Water - to fill the bin

This summer I have given it away because lugging a bucket out to roses is getting beyond me. But I am sure it did the roses some good. In retrospect I probably should have chucked in a handful of lucerne (alfalfa?) hay as well.
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Reply #11 of 14 posted 12 MAR 15 by twinkletoad (zone 7B)
Thanks, Patricia!
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Reply #12 of 14 posted 24 MAR 16 by sanjuanrobin
Jay Jay,
Hi...I was researching info about the two newly planted Mme. Alfred Carriere roses I planted this week, realizing now that I need to replant them to give them more space to grow width wise. But I see you are a plant grafter...
My biggest question: I really want to plant Gloire de Dijon, but searching blogs etc. have noted that those grown on own root stock are weak and short-lived, while those grafted have a better chance. As I live on San Juan island in Washington state USA, I don't really know where to go for one...suppliers of this rose seem to only carry own root stock...What would you recommend or do?
Thanks!
Robin Meyer-Tate
experienced gardner
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Reply #13 of 14 posted 24 MAR 16 by Jay-Jay
Good evening Robin,
You write, that You're an experienced gardener.
Is it an idea, to buy some rootstock Yourselves (I understand Dr. Huey is used commonly in the States) and bud-graft the roses You want Yourselves. It isn't that difficult at all. I have no experience with 'Gloire de Dijon', but member Aurelija does have, probably with a bud-grafted specimen. You might ask her about her experience in a Personal Message.
Please take a look at these demo's in German: http://www.gartenfernsehen.de/filme/rosen-veredeln-teil-1
The URL of part two in the next reply.
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Reply #14 of 14 posted 24 MAR 16 by Jay-Jay
Part two of the demo: http://www.gartenfernsehen.de/filme/rosen-veredeln-teil-2
In case You want pictures of how to bud-graft roses, please send me a PM.
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Reply #2 of 14 posted 10 MAR 15 by HMF Admin
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your experience. Too often members of the HMF community just share their experience with their "keepers". This insight is equally valuable, particularly because you prefixed it with location information.
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Discussion id : 90-981
most recent 18 FEB 16 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 18 FEB 16 by kysusan
ARS 8.8
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