You're welcome! I can completely understand your desire to have roses festooning over the windows and transforming your courtyard....but..the spider mite and black spot issues are going to be nearly universal no matter what "class" or variety of rose you select. Ten gallons isn't that large for a rose, even under ideal conditions. Trying to grow a rose which is going to need a root system almost as large as its top growth in that kind of restricted amount of soil; then making it one which is genetically programmed to have a LARGE mass of a plant and putting it somewhere it has to stretch for light AND endure the spider mites, very high transpiration due to the reflected heat and its resultant water stresses (which suppress immune responses, making the plant more susceptible to insect and disease attacks) and the moist/humid conditions favoring black spot, seems like setting yourself up for failure to me. That does not seem a "rose situation" at all from your description.

Add that "shade tolerant" means many different things to many different people and is highly dependent upon actual location and situation. If you take your cue from Nature, you will see that "shade tolerant" roses are primarily those with very light colored, pastel, mainly white blooms. They are also traditionally very small, single to semi single flowers which require very little actual heat/light energy to open. The light colors are required due to the reduced light qualities in "shade". Everything in Nature is genetically programmed to reproduce before dying to perpetuate the species. Flowering is ovulation. Seed set is pregnancy. Though roses do tend to pollinate themselves, they also rely upon pollinators (primarily bees, which are not that active in shade compared to sun) which must be attracted to the blooms. That attraction is due more to light reflection than scent. Roses which naturally grow in reduced light (under story plants on the edges of woodlands) need the light colored blooms to reflect the lower light so the pollinators can "see" them. Look at roses which naturally grow in extreme sun conditions, such as Hulthemia, Foetida and their like. They have brilliant flowers. In Hulthemia's case, with a central zone of dark, saturated red almost like a target, making finding the pollen and stigma easier for insects to hone in on.

Those shade growers are also almost always climbers which will tolerate the reduced light until they push themselves up and through the tree canopy where their flowering (reproductive) wood is usually out in the warm sun, where they flower (ovulate) and where pollinators can more easily find them. "Tolerating shade" does not really mean "grows and flowers well with decent health" in lower light. It means they will exist, sometimes without extreme foliage issues and sometimes providing acceptable levels of flowers, but they are seldom as good as they could be under higher light conditions. The greater the petal count, the higher the light requirements of the rose. The larger the flowers, the greater the light/heat requirements. It takes a lot of energy to create then physically open those many, large petals.

The roses which tend to be the most shade tolerant are mainly those more closely related to R. multiflora. "Hybrid Musk" roses are not really "musk" roses, but hybrids of multiflora. From experience here in Southern California, which, I agree, is a totally different set of issues from yours, the most successful growing and flowering roses for severe shade conditions are Cl. Iceberg and Sally Holmes, neither of which are particularly resistant to black spot or mildew under truly adverse conditions. Nor do I believe you are going to find that high black spot resistance in an extremely shade tolerant rose. Nature frequently uses disease to "tell" the rose how to respond to the conditions it grows in. But, that is another subject for another post. The set you describe honestly does not seem "rose suitable" to me.