HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
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Does anyone know how shade tolerant this rose is? Thank-you.
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I've seen Moonlight growing in southern England grown in part shade doing very well in both June and August.
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#2 of 2 posted
17 APR 17 by
Gdisaz10
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It is susceptible to powdery mildew in the shade positions
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My Mrs. B.R. Cant has grown to over 10 ft. tall by 10 ft. wide also. When I planted it, the spot seemed large enough. Now - whenever my family mows the yard they get stuck with 1/2 inch thorns that rip their clothes and hurt like the dickens! I was impressed by the picture of Devoniensis (posted by Jeri & Clay Jennings) that apparently had been pruned into a tree. Today I finished pruning Mrs. B.R. Cant into a 10 ft. tall, 2-trunk tree. I'll keep you posted on what develops. It is very pretty - the blossoms hang down - just lovely.
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#1 of 1 posted
21 JUL 15 by
boopie
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Do you have a picture of this bush now that it has been many years since pruning it?
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I had this rose growing and blooming in 4 hrs sun a day in a pot and the blooms always came out perfect. It had no disease problems. So this rose is shade-tolerant.
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We noted the shade tolerance in the plant's description but we're hesitant to label it as disease resistant based on just your experience as that may be a result of your particular gardening practices. Anyone else care to comment on how disease resistant this rose is for them?
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#2 of 9 posted
6 JUL 11 by
evan500
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I live in New York state (Westchester County). I've had Black Magic for a little over a year (I planted it in about June of 2010). This year I am noticing more black spot then I did last year. I'd say my three foot high plant has lost close to half its leaves. I don't use commercial fungicides in my garden. Last year I often used the common baking soda solution to combat black spot, but my sense is that it helps some, but is no great cure. This year the only thing I have been doing is removing diseased foliage, including fallen dead leaves.
I do love the gorgeous red black flowers, but if I continue to see this level of black spot, I probably won't keep this plant. Since taking a class last year on "going green with roses" I am moving towards old garden varieties which, in general, seem to be more disease resistant. It is very disappointing, but in my experience, a majority of hybrid tea roses when grown in New York's hot humid summers are afflicted with black spot.
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#3 of 9 posted
8 JUL 11 by
 Jay-Jay
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You might try this mixture from a recipe of the Rosarium of Winschoten: for every 5 liter=>
10 grams of magnesiasulphate
10 grams of spraying-sulphur
10 grams of Algeco (concentrated Algae-extract)
35 ml of Vital (a leaf fertilizer)
25 grams of baking soda
25 ml of sunseedoil
1.25 ml of (dishwashing) detergent
For me it works (but not for the rose Sunrise/Freisinger Morgenröte)
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#4 of 9 posted
8 JUL 11 by
evan500
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Thanks, I appreciate the info!
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Oh, there are more than just OGRs that fit the bill now for "going green".
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#6 of 9 posted
19 JUN 14 by
Jay-Jay
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Could You explain the abbreviation OGR?
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"Since taking a class last year on "going green with roses" I am moving towards old garden varieties which, in general, seem to be more disease resistant. It is very disappointing, but in my experience, a majority of hybrid tea roses when grown in New York's hot humid summers are afflicted with black spot."
OGR is the American abbreviation for old garden roses.
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#8 of 9 posted
20 JUN 14 by
Jay-Jay
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Thank You! And good luck with Your new insight.
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Oh, I was just quoting what I was referencing. It is not my quote :] I mostly grow non-OGRs resistant to most blackspots. For example, Yellow Submarine.
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I planted Voluptuous in my now zone 6 garden this past spring of 2006. It has really started growing and blooming vigorously and already producing lots of large fuschia blooms. This is going to be a fun rose to watch this whole growing season to see how it continues to thrive and produce.
The one thing that I am watching for this next year is the thickness and strength of the canes and stems as they never seemed to really bulk up it's first year and the flowers definitely nod because of it. Maybe it will get stronger in it's second year and thereon. Did anyone else experience this nodding with the rose its' first year?? Did it improve in subsequent years?? |
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#1 of 6 posted
10 JUN 07 by
Unregistered Guest
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I noticed the parents of this rose are a floribunda and grandiflora, so I really think this rose should be classified as a grandiflora, not hybrid tea. Tournament of Roses and Trumpeter both don't have stout canes, and that may be why its offspring doesn't either.
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The classification of modern roses is determined by the breeder. When blooms are borne mostly solitary, that is one of the defining characteristics of a hybrid tea. Grandiflora roses are cluster flowered roses.
Smiles,
Lyn
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#3 of 6 posted
28 JUN 07 by
Unregistered Guest
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My two grandiflora roses Queen Elizabeth and Love both bloom one flower per stem, and not in clusters. Perhaps the breeder was wrong? Or maybe labeling this rose as a hybrid tea would sell more bushes? Smiles, Carlene.
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As Lyn says, the breeder selects the classification. Nothing to do with parents. What class is Rose 'Iceberg'? Hybrid Musk mother, HT father. Classified by Reimer Kordes as Floribunda. Personally, given its wonderful constitution and general resistance to fungal infection, I consider it might to be properly considered a Hybrid Musk. Rosa 'Virgo' we know is a martyr to Powdery Mildew, but does not affect Rosa 'Iceberg'. There are very few HT roses that don't ever produce a cluster flowered watershoot. What do we prune out of an old watershoot but the centre candelabra, and leave the two lower laterals, trimming them to a plump bud. Thus begins the one bloom per lateral of a HT rose. Grandifloras also follow suit, they are a little more likely to linger with multiple heads, but will still produce solitary blooms on one cane.
Carlene, if you can't get Rosa 'Queen Elizabeth' to cluster, might I suggest that it is not growing very vigorously. If you are in Southern California, I suspect it should get to 8 feet tall. At that height it should be cluster flowering. Rosa 'Love' is another matter. For me it just had little vigour, and behaved and looked like a Hybrid Tea. It sulked in my garden.
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#5 of 6 posted
4 JUN 10 by
Carlene
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I ended up shovel-pruning Queen Elizabeth as insects had infected the bud union, and it wasn't blooming much. Love is still doing well in the ground, partially shaded by a fig tree, although still blooms like a hybrid tea. In our clay soil I found the Earth Kind roses, and teas and chinas do best. I keep the new modern roses I buy that need to be pampered in pots now, in part-shade, next to a water source where I can water them all the time. I have the best luck in growing the cluster-flowered roses this way, in our soil and climate. Thanks.
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#6 of 6 posted
27 OCT 12 by
Ariel7
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Hi. I see it's been a few years, but I will respond to your question. Yes, Voluptuous gets heavy blooms, and when the plant is young, the blooms can "nod.". But this definitely is not a problem with my two-year-old bush. Sometimes one stem has multiple blooms, and then the whole branch bows, and needs some support. However, this doesn't happen often.
As for heat--I live in West Texas, where the sun is intense. My plant gets a full day of sun, 12 hours or more, almost every day. Voluptuous grows vigorously, and blooms with heavy flushes of blooms about every six weeks. The fall flush is just as prolific as the spring flush, the summer flushes somewhat less.. I don't notice any wilting of the blooms in intense sun. This is one gorgeous, happy plant.
One thing I do which may help--all my HTs love bonemeal, and respond happily to being fed. I noticed when I started feeding them that their stems seemed stronger. Definitely they were more prolific.
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