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York Rose
most recent 18 AUG 14 SHOW ALL
Initial post 5 DEC 10 by York Rose
I have long thought it seemed a bit odd to classify this rose as a Hybrid Musk. I grew it for a few years over 20 years ago (getting it from the 1980's version of Roses of Yesterday and Today) and I always thought it seemed much more to me like a very big floribunda than a Hybrid Musk. The canes were a lot stiffer than I envision the "typical" Hybrid Musk's canes as being. It was more of an upright shrub than a "Hybrid Musk".

(None of which is to say it wasn't lovely! :) )
Reply #1 of 6 posted 5 DEC 10 by Rupert, Kim L.
Yorkrose, I read your post about Lavender Lassie and after discovering where you grow it, understand why it seems like a large floribunda to you. Here, north of Los Angeles, I've had two. The first was an old Roses of Yesterday and Today plant. The second from a different source and twenty years later. Neither one repeated its bloom here. There was one large spring flush, which usually didn't open because they all balled, then nothing other than mildew. It seems to perform the way you expect it to, it requires a more northern, probably shorter, growing season. Thank you.
Reply #2 of 6 posted 15 DEC 10 by York Rose
Ah. I see I neglected to mention (for those who read these comments in the future) that I grew this rose in Bucks County, PA, probably 20 miles or less north of Philadelphia (in Newtown), and 5 miles west of the Delaware River. I haven't lived there since 1994.

(Oh yes - one other thing. When I say that it seemed like "a very large floribunda", I'm referring to the size of the plant, not the size of the flowers. When it bloomed the flowers were each only 2"-3" wide, in clusters of maybe 4 - 7, or something like that. I haven't seen it in bloom since the late 1980's. :)

My impression of the "typical" Hybrid Musk (insofar as there is such a thing) is that the canes are at least a little bit lax, willowy, and arching. Where I grew it Lavender Lassie's canes weren't going to even begin getting that way until they were at least 6' high.)
Reply #3 of 6 posted 4 FEB 14 by VictoriaRosa
I grow it in Western Oregon, Zone 8 -- wet winters and dry summers, in a partly shaded location. It does great. It's different from the "true" HMs in that it has thicker, stiffer canes (as York Rose noted). I grow mine as a climber on a trellis, and now also growing into a dead star magnolia tree on the other side -- it's very vigorous. The new canes are quite trainable -- it puts out new, long ones very rapidly.
Reply #4 of 6 posted 14 AUG 14 by Anita silicon valley
Does anyone else have problems with this rose not reblooming? I live in the San Francisco Bay area where Summers can get into the high eighties easily.
Reply #5 of 6 posted 18 AUG 14 by Patricia Routley
My (southern hemisphere) photos of this rose were taken in spring - Nov and Dec. I cannot recall any later blooming. Looking through the HelpMefind (northern hemisphere) photos, where mentioned, the dates ranged from April to Sept. The GST 1994 ref indicates that in England it is always in flower.
Reply #6 of 6 posted 18 AUG 14 by Rupert, Kim L.
That honestly makes sense, Patricia. Though to the British, it feels as through they actually have a spring, summer and fall, compared to where Lavender Lassie fails to flower spring through fall, they don't. Their traditional climate is more like coastal California as far as temperatures go, plus they get the winter cold our coast doesn't. Perhaps the rose requires some chill, then doesn't "repeat" but continues its spring flowering until "summer" temperatures arrive? Along our coast, Banksiaes flower from spring through mid to late summer, depending upon how long it takes for the late summer "heat" to arrive. Inland, that heat arrives very early compared to the coast, so our Banksiaes flower just a few weeks, while the coastal ones can go months in a "good year". Maybe Lavender Lassie is one of those? I know it doesn't "repeat" its flowering in the inland valleys. I've encountered and grown too many of them and none has had flowers after the spring flush.
most recent 30 JUN 13 SHOW ALL
Initial post 15 MAY 10 by York Rose
If grown on its own roots does Golden Wings sucker?
Reply #1 of 6 posted 16 MAY 10 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
I've had this one in the ground nearly 15 years. It's never suckered for me.
Reply #2 of 6 posted 29 JUN 13 by Simon Voorwinde
Robert, is yours own-root? If so did you strike it and can you give an account of how easy/difficult it was to strike? I'm curious to know given spin. features in it so prominently and they can be such a pain to strike.
Reply #3 of 6 posted 29 JUN 13 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Simon, my specimen is own-root. I've never tried to strike it from cuttings. However, I've never heard that it's difficult to propagate.

I can add that I've raised several seedlings from it when used as pollen parent. None were commercial enough for introduction. Most are prone to Powdery Mildew.

I'm watching a second generation descendant now that looks promising.
Reply #4 of 6 posted 30 JUN 13 by Simon Voorwinde
Have you tried striking its progeny?
Reply #5 of 6 posted 30 JUN 13 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
No, not yet.
Reply #6 of 6 posted 30 JUN 13 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
No, not yet.
most recent 27 JUN 13 SHOW ALL
Initial post 28 NOV 10 by York Rose
The Montreal Botanical Garden recommends this rose as resistant to blackspot, powdery mildew, and rust:
Reply #1 of 11 posted 1 APR 12 by nurene
mine got BS in it's 3 year - I pruned back a lot - but was disappointed.
Does anyone know what one can do about BS without using chemical poisons?
Reply #2 of 11 posted 1 APR 12 by Rupert, Kim L.
Nurene, any recommendations for any disease resistance mean very little, unless they come from areas very close to you. I forget the total number of DIFFERENT types of black spot they have identified around the world, but we have FIVE different black spot races here in the US. For me to state a rose is black spot resistant in my California garden means virtually nothing to someone gardening across the country from me because we have different types of black spot. Few roses are as resistant to one type as they are the others.

Unless someone close to where you live promotes the particular rose as being resistant to the disease you're hoping to avoid, you can't honestly expect the rose to resist it in your garden. Add the special circumstances of your particular micro climate and even those which are resistant to your specific strain of black spot may not be able to resist it.

Many roses aren't as resistant to disease as they eventually can be when they are immature or have been pruned severely. They require decent culture, conditions and proper nourishment for their immune systems to function well, just as we do. Personally, I wouldn't prune any wood off the plant because of black spot, but remove the foliage instead. Many roses store nutrients in their canes for use later. By severely pruning them, you may cause them to be malnourished until they are able to replace those stored nutrients. In your harsher climate, where there can easily be much wood lost due to extreme cold or heavy snow damage, and more severe pruning required to winter protect them, you can much more easily experience disease susceptibility resulting from compromised immune system reactions.

There are a number of other rose growers here from The Netherlands who should be able to offer suggestions for which roses have resisted black spot for them there. Their experiences would be much more valid for you because they would be far more likely to be battling the specific type of black spot you are likely to experience. Good luck. I hope it helps.
Reply #3 of 11 posted 1 APR 12 by bungalow1056
Great advice Kim! I live in NC and with our hot humid summers, the blackspot battles are ongoing for many of my roses. Modern roses definitely seem more susceptible to it than the OGR's. Some shrug it off if it comes while others need petting. I don't grow this rose specifically but totally agree that it's generally a better idea to trim off and remove infected foliage but leave the canes alone, especially during growing season. I've heard or read plenty of anecdotal evidence about natural or non-chemical BS controls but have had poor results without chemical treatments from time to time, whether spraying or using a soil compound in addition to good cultural practices.
Reply #4 of 11 posted 1 APR 12 by Rupert, Kim L.
An example I can give you I've seen repeatedly here in Southern California is with Iceberg. You can force Iceberg to black spot by keeping it too severely pruned. If allowed to grow to the size the plant wants to be, the characteristic mildew on the peduncles is minimized dramatically, and black spot is virtually eliminated in many cases. Unfortunately, too often people whack the dickens out of them to get rid of the mildew and particularly the saw fly larvae (Rose Slugs) instead of using bacterial or other organic solutions. In these climates and with that particular rose here, eliminating the stored wood by removing so much wood unnecessarily triggers many more disease issues than would normally be the case.
Reply #5 of 11 posted 2 APR 12 by Lyn G
"Modern roses definitely seem more susceptible to it than the OGR's."

In my experience, I think this statement may be too much of a generalization. One of the reasons it seems like OGRs are more disease resistant to us, is that the OGRs that were more disease prone have dropped out of commerce, so the ones that are left and still available are the roses that have stood the test of time in many parts of the world.

Of course, there are other reasons, but this is just something to think about.

Reply #6 of 11 posted 2 APR 12 by Rupert, Kim L.
In many cases, that's true. Another reason is the OGRs which have survived, have been "rediscovered" in climates more suited to them. You won't find surviving, self sustaining, old bushes of La Reine in many areas of Southern California because it is so prone to rust and black spot in these climates. You can find old Teas and Chinas because they're suited to the humidity and heat. As with "natural, indigenous plants", they survive where they are best suited.
Reply #7 of 11 posted 2 APR 12 by bungalow1056
Very good points Kim and Lyn. And, of course, there are many great selections of disease resistant modern roses.
Reply #8 of 11 posted 3 APR 12 by nurene
Thank you very much Rupert for the good advice.
I will see how it goes this year. The untimely frost really got to the roses (we don't do much winter protection here, since it doesn't usually get that cold and certainly not so late. - everything was already swelling and getting ready to come), so there is a lot of dead wood. I'll cut that back and maybe th frost was good for the BS?!
Reply #9 of 11 posted 3 APR 12 by Rupert, Kim L.
"Good" for the black spot in that lack of nutrients can cause the plant to be more susceptible. I don't have any information that freezes kill off the fungi. It should be interesting to see how your roses do after this. Please observe and report back to the comments section here. It can be very valuable information to share. Thank you!
Reply #10 of 11 posted 26 JUN 13 by nurene
I had hardly any black spot after that heavy late freeze-up. I did nothing else to the roses, just good organic fertilizer and compost. So maybe the frost DID help?
Reply #11 of 11 posted 27 JUN 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
It's entirely possible the freezes helped, though it is also probably as much possible that the organic fertilizer helped bolster the plant's immune system as well as foster beneficial fungi growth which helped keep the black spot in check. Whatever it was, I'm glad it's working!
most recent 10 JUN 13 SHOW ALL
Initial post 10 MAR 10 by York Rose
How often does this rose bloom, just once in late spring/early summer, or more often than that?
Reply #1 of 1 posted 10 JUN 13 by Hoffman
It blooms only once , but it has a long blooming period , more than a month , this is a huge rose. Enormous, and it is winter hardy. Needs plenty of Room
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