HelpMeFind Roses, Clematis and Peonies
Roses, Clematis and Peonies
and everything gardening related.
most recent 14 MAY SHOW ALL
Initial post 12 OCT 22 by cooleyedbabe
K and M Roses currently shows photos of "Court of Honor" as a deep red rose. No commentary included.
Reply #1 of 3 posted 13 OCT 22 by jedmar
Their website is only partially operational at the moment.
Reply #2 of 3 posted 14 MAY by Michael Garhart
"Court of Honor
Hybrid Tea. Red."

That's what the site currently states. No idea what kind of red though, but the pic is red.
Reply #3 of 3 posted 14 MAY by jedmar
Thank you, colour modified.
most recent 4 NOV 22 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 4 NOV 22 by cooleyedbabe
Planted Hot Princess in 2016. Never gives me a bit of trouble. She's on east side of house in Portland, OR, 8b officially, but really more 9a. She gets 6 hours of sun Spring thru Summer, then in shade all day from about Oct. 1. to mid-March.
It finally stopped raining about the end of June 2022 (light rain). Then we had unseasonably hot summer. High 90s, a few days in 100s.
Although her blooms are red, like Alec's Red, they fad to reddish pink-purple when opening. The color is not ugly, but not attractive. However it takes a long time for her to open so it's not really an issue with me. I get more blooms than I can keep up with. She is so full-petaled that her stamens never show. After cutting, and petals are falling, stamens don't show til there's nearly nothing left.
Even in full shade, her flowers fade soon after they are 1/2 way open. I do love her fluted petals, very feminine and befitting a princess. I have her son, Hot Prince, who looks like he's going to be redder and not have fluted petals. In nature the males are usually more colorful than the girls. LOL!
Really vigorous and disease resistant. Roses around her ( no closer than 3') got canker, blackspot and mildew (Double Delight). Princess stayed clean. I guess being a Princess she felt she was too good to catch anything!
Tall and stately, beautiful form. Easily 8' if I didn't keep cutting her back to 5' or 6'. No matter how much I prune her back she never stops blooming, even now she has at least a dozen blooms.
Canes very strong regardless of height. Even in some pretty strong winds, canes don't break. Her blooms are ALL solitary on very long, strong stems. Lasts very long after cutting. A florist told me to refrigerate my roses (in water) overnight. Made a huge difference in how long they lasted. I only do it once, right after I cut them.
Any questions? Love to expound but I never get notice that anyone replies. I have the thing checked in my account that says to notify me about replies.
Reply #1 of 1 posted 4 NOV 22 by HMF Admin
Wow, now that's member participation on steroids ! Thank you so much for sharing your experience !
most recent 3 NOV 22 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 3 NOV 22 by cooleyedbabe
I purchased Flamenco from J&P in 2019. There was a small lesion near the base of one cane. At that time I was particularly ignorant of rose diseases.
From 2005 to 2013, grew a dozen or so HTs & GFs about 300 yds. from the beach of Pierpont Bay, Ventura, CA (e.g. Blue Girl, Black Baccara, Pope Pius, Gold Medal, can't remember others) . Only disease was mildew on BB. Blackspot, insects, what were those? Innocence is bliss.
2013 moved back to Portland, OR (9b). Winter 2013 tore out old rose garden, fumigated, let it set (horticulturist advice). Fall 2014 ordered roses for Spring 2015 planting. All looked good, grew well, some blackspot easily controlled, no mildew.
Spring 2019 received Flamenco HT from J&P. There was a small lesion near the base of one cane. At that time, since I hadn't any uncontrollable problems, I was pretty ignorant about rose diseases. I had never heard of Rose Canker. Researching the internet, I learned that the "lesion" was rose canker. Yes, a particularly unusual presentation according to what I read. Soon my Flamenco had a "lesion" at the top of a cane. I removed it. Then another, removed, then another, removed, til no canes left. The new canes were less than pencil in dia. Flowers 2 1/2" then up to 3". BUT the worst part was, over the next 2 years, canker spread to 1/2 my 40 roses. I should have pulled it when the canker kept popping up but I couldn't give up. Finally did give up and burned it. Keep a sharp eye for lesions no matter how small. Cut canes out as soon as I see it.
Didn't think of refund or replacement. I figured it was just a fluke. So this Spring I couldn't resist this beautiful baby especially after reading HMF comments. Long story short: Ordered 3, all had rose mosaic and small canker lesions, upon delivery. I immediately informed J & P (sent photos). They made full refund. A month later I received 3 more Flamencos?! Go figure. They too had mosaic but no canker. But I guess mosaic is not fatal, just weird looking. I constantly patrol and remove any canker. I don't know if I'll ever eradicate it. Probably not. Ironically, new 2022 roses from 3 other nurseries either had canker lesions or lesions within 3 days. Planted nowhere near other roses (a new bed). From 1 nursery, the canker was extensive down into the graft. With detailed photos I got a full refund. I planted those in a pasture across a paved driveway behind a big metal barn. I wanted to see if the canker had destroyed the graft. The canes never grew. The other roses just had extensive lesions which I cut out. That only left 1" - 2" canes that got more lesions. I gave up and burned them all.
Yes, I have had several rosarians confirm that it's canker. It wasn't til 2020 that I learned to spray my pruners with alcohol or a disinfectant. Now I generously spray pruners between each cutting on the same bush. Then I immerse cutters to top of handles before moving to the next bush. I spray my gauntlet gloves too and wash them daily. I am getting a handle on things. I'm up to 55 HTs (includes 6 Flamencos LOL!) and 20 GFs.
most recent 2 NOV 22 SHOW ALL
Initial post 22 OCT 22 by cooleyedbabe
Depth to plant grafted roses? I have repeatedly read to plant the graft above the soil. Now to day I read from a prominant, respected rose grower/seller, to plant graft 2 " below the soil? Then I read an article here where a very highly respected rose expert says that nothing with roses is certain. They live to bewilder us. LOL! I'm beginning to believe that. So I'm very novice compared to most of you folks but would welcome any opinions/comments, etc.
Thank you, Jeri
Reply #1 of 4 posted 22 OCT 22 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Seek local advice.

This depends on personal preference, climate and soil conditions.

If you garden in a colder climate, conventional wisdom is to bury them.

Keep in mind, not all roses are budded.
Reply #2 of 4 posted 22 OCT 22 by Margaret Furness
And this, too: if the rose is one that will sucker on its own roots, I wouldn't put the bud union in the soil.
For those that don't, I think giving the scion (the top part) a chance to make its own roots, by putting the bud union below the soil, gives it more chance of coming back after fire, line-trimmers, bounding dogs etc.
Reply #3 of 4 posted 22 OCT 22 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Good point Margaret.
Reply #4 of 4 posted 2 NOV 22 by MADActuary
I believe you said you are in Portland, OR - thus you don't experience much freezing weather. I would recommend you plant the bud union right at ground level or a smidge above. Usually, the plant will sink down a tad over time so that would result in a good depth. There is more than one way to skin a cat but for me, in zone 5b, roses planted with the bud union too deep don't seem to grow as well as those with the bud union at or very near ground level. They may be hardier come winter if planted deep, but they just don't seem to grow as well.

That said if you planted just a little above or below ground level - I'm sure everything would work out just fine. Happy planting!
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