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Discussion id : 129-398
most recent 19 OCT 21 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 15 OCT 21 by ldmont
I am new to growing roses seriously (or somewhat seriously) and I was having problems with rust and black spot in my Zone 9b garden. I tried spraying with neem seed oil, but that seemed to do harm as well as good. (Perhaps I over-sprayed.)

I then decided to make a tea of neem seed meal and mint compost (from Heirloom Roses). I put a handful of the mint compost and a smaller amount of neem seed meal in a 5 gallon bucket and filled it about 3/4s full. I let it sit for a little while to steep and then poured a small amount around the roots of my roses. (Each batch was enough for 6-8 roses.)

Since I started doing that my roses have become overall remarkably disease-free. (Fingers crossed). I have done it several times over the last 3 months and am going to keep doing so.

I wanted to pass this along as it may help others as well. I also hope that others on this forum will try this tea and let us know how it works for them.
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Reply #1 of 4 posted 16 OCT 21 by Margaret Furness
For interest: below is a recipe given to Heritage Roses in Australia by Frank Hogan in tropical Queensland.

"This spray I use on all plants; it controls back spot, mildew, rust, scale, caterpillars, and grasshoppers.
To a 5 litre sprayer; adjust ingredients to your requirements.
* 25ml canola oil
* 25ml dishwashing detergent
* emulsify until creamy smooth
2 tablespoons bicarbonate dissolved in a little hot water
1 cup whole cream milk
25ml seaweed extract
Combine all with running water; use within 24 hours or oil may separate.
Spray late afternoon.
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Reply #2 of 4 posted 16 OCT 21 by Give me caffeine
I might try that and see how it goes. Although it would probably need to be reapplied frequently.

The bicarbonate is a common ingredient is "organic fungicides" but it has two drawbacks. First, it is not a fungicide at all in that it does not actually kill fungus or spores. It will inhibit their growth by causing a high pH on the leaf surface, but the fungus will still be alive (just static). Second, it washes off easily, so any rain or heavy dew will inactivate the bicarbonate and the fungus will take off again.
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Reply #3 of 4 posted 19 OCT 21 by ldmont
Thanks Margaret. That sounds quite impressive. But probably above my pay grade. :)
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Reply #4 of 4 posted 19 OCT 21 by Margaret Furness
Well, Frank was running a nursery (in Mackay), so he would have wanted to spray many roses. I guess you can downsize it!
There are at least two brands of seaweed extract used widely here to promote root growth. Probably some in the US too.
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Discussion id : 126-276
most recent 10 MAR 21 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 9 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
I have a large scruffy weigela as a border hedge and have built a 2m by 1.5 m trellis, mounted to a raised bed placed in front of the weigela. This is for my Bathsheba. Today doing a prune i noticed that the weigella leaves have multiple brown blotches on the edges of the leaves and some of them are looking like simply autumn leaves, ie brown and withering. Admittedly these leaves are last years and they've just come through winter, so I 'd expect some of them to have deteriorated and eventually die off. But I'm wondering, does weigella have 'Blackspot', is this then likely to be blackspot and therefore contaminate my climber ?
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Reply #1 of 9 posted 9 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
It's not likely that Weigela suffers from black-spot. At least, I never noticed it during my life.
Black-spot shows very characteristic features. Probably Your Weigela suffered from sunburn/frost-burn during the winter-period.
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Reply #2 of 9 posted 9 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
thank you, that's good news
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Reply #3 of 9 posted 9 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
A photo often says more than a thousand words, so maybe You could post a photo of the plant and the leaves.
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Reply #4 of 9 posted 9 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
at the moment I am photoless. My wife drove over my phone and it's the only thing that allows me to take photos and upload them. Do'nt even have a digital camera. Been offline for a fgortnight except for using my editing station for emails etc. Woe is me ;-)
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Reply #5 of 9 posted 9 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
You're photoless... I'm more or less speachless.
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Reply #6 of 9 posted 9 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
To speak with Shawn Elliot: "Woe is me, shame and scandal in the family."
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Reply #7 of 9 posted 9 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
LOL.
And we just started speaking again after she dropped my new binos on the floor. But one suffers on. OH had a lightbulb moment. Hook up my scanner and bung a few in it. I'll dig it out on the morrow.
Update. On closer inspection the hedge is a tangle of weigella, laurel and escalonia. The leaves that had concerned me are escalonia leaves, as in the jpeg., the weigela seems OK.
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Reply #8 of 9 posted 10 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
Looks like a fungus to me on the leaves.
Found something Leaf-spot: ask.extension.org/questions/594698
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Reply #9 of 9 posted 10 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
OK thanks, I'll browse that link. If it is fungus then it's very widespread on the escalonia but hasn't migrated to the tangle of weigela and laurel so hopefuly it'll give my bathsheba a miss.
Update; yep looks like 'leaf spot' as you say, thank you.
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Discussion id : 123-838
most recent 8 NOV 20 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 8 NOV 20 by MADActuary
Does anyone have experience using the BioAdvanced 3 in 1 product? It contains fertilizer, insecticide and fungicide - and is applied as a soil drench at 1 quart per bush to (allegedly) provide 6 weeks of protection. If this product works well it would seem to be a viable alternative to weekly spraying and usage would seem to be much less labor intensive than weekly spraying. Has anyone used this product and does it work effectively?
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Discussion id : 96-174
most recent 11 MAR 21 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 4 DEC 16 by Andrew from Dolton
Does anyone know a a way I can try and reduce the amount of black spot in my garden? I live in the bottom of a valley where there are low night temperatures in summer and heavy dews. In the U.K. we don't have a Continental climate with long summers and winters with short springs and autumns. Spring can start in February but still go on until the end of May, likewise, autumn can start in August but we still can get warm weather in November. There is usually high rain fall throughout the year and frosts in June and August are not uncommon. Certain roses grow very well, Gallicas, Damasks, Albas and certain species crosses like x 'Highdownensis' grow very well. Others, like 'Compassion', 'Iceburg' and most David Austin roses struggle to thrive and after the first year gradually become poorer. Almost every rose I grow gets black spot to some degree although I have never experienced any type of mildew or rust. Even the wild populations of Rosa arvensis are almost defoliated with this disease. I also believe there are issues with trace elements in the soil. It is a slightly acid well drained loam. The heavy rain fall we experience has I believe deluded the soil of certain elements like boron. I am experimenting with dressing the soil with borax and lime this winter. Every spring I give the roses a dressing of fish, blood and bone, I also mulch with my home made compost and chicken manure pellets added. I am fastidious with collecting up the diseased leaves which I burn. For next season I want to plan a structured spay programme which ideally should be as organic as possible but this is not set in stone. Any suggestions other members have would be greatly be appreciated, thank you.
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Reply #1 of 7 posted 5 DEC 16 by Jay-Jay
sent You a PM.
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Reply #2 of 7 posted 23 DEC 16 by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
Andrew: Google "Organic rose" and you'll see Organic Rose Growing - Gardenweb, where I posted info. on trace-elements to fight blackspots and to neutralize acidic rain. Red-lava-rock is high in potassium and boron, pea-gravel rocks is high in magnesium & calcium. Wood-ash is high in trace-elements, pH over 12.
I gardened in both acidic clay and alkaline clay. Last house of acidic clay & roses grafted on Dr.Huey: it was a BS-fest. Present house of alkaline clay: Dr.Huey likes it alkaline, so much less. 99% of my roses are own-roots .. the own-roots like it acidic when they are tiny-babies, but as they get older, depending on their genetics, their roots get woody like Romantica roses, and certain Austins (I listed all the info. which own-roots like acidic and which ones like alkaline in Organic rose).

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4114089/mineral-nutrient-deficiency-and-secret-to-health-and-antifungal-trace-e?n=44

For less blackspots, I focus on making the soil below loamy & fluffy for best potassium up-take, then I use a buffer on top to neutralize acidic rain. The buffer could be dolomitic lime (calcium & magnesium), red-lava (potassium & boron), colorful-pea-gravel (variety of alkaline minerals), wood-ash (high in boron and zinc), and black-peat-humus (nitrogen & magnesium & calcium).

Since HMF doesn't allow me to post more than one links, I'll put the links in my main HMF-profile as to which OWN-ROOT like it acidic, and which OWN-ROOT like it alkaline, plus what's the best soil & pH-level for different types of rootstock.
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Reply #3 of 7 posted 9 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
very helpful, thank you.
Have you removed the post in your link, I'm just getting an error indication
{Cannot GET /discussions/4114089/mineral-nutrient-deficiency-and-secret-to-health-and-antifungal-trace-e}
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Reply #6 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
If You wish "Peter de Wolf", I might send You the same PM, as I wrote to Andrew, in which I describe a home-made cure, that is used too in Winschoten Rosarium against blackspot.
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Reply #7 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by peterdewolf
Thank you, please do, I have to get prepared before I have to deal with it.
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Reply #4 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by MADActuary
I am no expert but I have observed that blackspot seems to start on the bottom leaves. I try to remove the bottom 10 to 12 inches of leaves once the plant is established well. You might also try a very hard pruning to "start over" when you start your new spray regimen in the future.
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Reply #5 of 7 posted 11 MAR 21 by Jay-Jay
I observed that in climbers blackspot started meters high. The spores can travel through air.

When it starts from below, it is likely, that it starts from spores that came from infected rose-leaves, that dropped on the soil, or stayed on the plant from a previous growing season. And rain spattering from the soil might do the rest of the trick.
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