HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
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Questions, Answers and Comments by Category
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Initial post
25 JUN 22 by
Mihnea
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I have this 3 years old Wollerton Old Hall. This year I have noticed this discoloration on some of the leaves - perhaps 5% of all the leaves are affected, no more, clustered on only 2 or 3 of the main canes. I cannot be sure if this is the very first time the discoloration has appeared, but, if it did appear in past years, it must have done so on even fewer leaves.
I did search for possible issues and to me it seems that the only good fit would be Rose Mosaic Virus.
Please give me your opinions.
Also, I have found what seem to be reliable sources claiming Mosaic does not spread from one rose to the next, and equally reliable sources claiming the opposite. Would love your thoughts on this too.
Cheers!
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I won't claim to be an expert, but in my opinion that is not rose mosaic virus. It could be from some insect or mite damage (like sawfly larvae) or a slight nutrient imbalance in your soil (calcium, sulfur and magnesium not in the proper balance?).
Rose mosaic virus cannot spread to another plant like blackspot and other fungal diseases. If it's a virus, it WOULD spread to other plants via reproduction. Assuming it is a virus, if you root cuttings from the virused plant then they too will have the virus. If you take a bud eye from the virus plant and bud it to a rootstock that new plant would also have the virus. But the virus cannot spread to other roses in your garden, I am quite sure on that.
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I was told by a horticulture PhD student that mosaic virus can be transmitted from the roots of a rose to those of one immediately adjacent to them. I have trouble believing it but it's not my field of expertise.
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That's defintiely true Margaret. The virus is transferred via root grafting.
I've seen this happen under field conditions.
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So I was right to pull out the roses next to an affected one - it hurt at the time.
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My Sympathie has some branches with rather pale green leaves and one where the tip has almost white leaves. We had rather late rather severe frosts this spring and I suspect these might be the weaker branches that got damaged by frost but not quite enough to actually die. In fact on one of them most new sprouts died and it now has laterals and leaves only on the top quarter of its length or so. The rest of the rose and all newer (post-frost) sprouts are fine.
My question is, is frost (rather than undernourishment or sickness) the likely explanation for this, and what should I do? These canes bear buds. Do I have to remove the parts with pale leaves, and if so, can I wait until after flowering?
Thank you for any advice.
[Hm ... five days and no reply. Surely with all the expertise assembled at HMF someone should be able to comment? Or did I ask in the wrong place?]
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HMF is designed as a tool where you can do your own research for the answers to your questions without waiting for someone in the rose community to respond. Have you done a search for "yellow leaves" in the Q & A archives ? There are many posts mentioning the causes of leaves turning yellow. Some will apply to your question.
Often someone may ask a question on the Q & A Forum where the answer is more complicated than they think, i.e., yellow leaves can have many, many causes, or no one currently using the forum has the answer to your question. Doing your own search is the best first step.
Smiles,
Lyn
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Thank you for the reply. I did search. Nothing that turned up seemed to match this particular problem. People were talking about the bottommost leaves of a plant turning yellow, or all of them at once, but not just the tips of some branches like with my rose. Since I had a particular guess as to the reasons I felt someone with more experience might be able to comment on the validity of that guess, and what to do about it.
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I am glad you did the search. I did find an article about freeze/frost damage that may help you. Here's the link:
http://www.nashvillerosesociety.com/springfreeze.html
Smiles,
Lyn
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That was very interesting, thank you. Although the symptoms described in the article don't quite match those I'm seeing. Seems my guess was wrong and the problem is something else entirely. Back to square one ...
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Look for "chlorosis" or iron deficiencies. I was reluctant to answer your earlier post, but that's what your photo looked like, at least to me. I caused this problem for myself one season by not having proper soil pH; mine was far too alkaline.
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Thank you! I did research chlorosis a little, but it seems typically the young leaves on the entire plant would be affected? And the leaves on mine look this way only on the ends of two branches out of several, and there are younger shoots elsewhere on which the leaves are dark green and quite "normal". Could an iron deficiency occur only locally?
Just found a post on a German rose forum where someone said yellow leaves might be caused by frost after all. We had late frosts all over Germany this year and apparantely I am not the only one with this problem ...
Oh well, guess I'd better not worry too much, as long as the damage is local. I suppose I'll let those branches bloom, then remove them entirely. There is enough new growth on that rose to make up for it, easily.
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I can't address the potential for damage by frost or freezing as we never experience anything even close to that here near Los Angeles. Now, if you want to know how to keep the rose from spontaneously combusting from heat, I'm your guy! I agree with Slugger, it looks as if there might be some alkalinity or drainage issues.
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"Now, if you want to know how to keep the rose from spontaneously combusting from heat" ...
Unfortunately an unlikely problem for Hamburg on 54 N! I'll come back for your advice when we buy our house in Provence ...
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I'm in a zone that experiences colder temperatures, and occasional frost damage. Here in the states the mid section of the country experienced freakishly high temperatures in March and April, and then a nosedive with a few frosts in May. As a result, many of us had rapid, early growth on our roses that succumbed to some frost damage in May. Frost damage will look like partially burnt leaves; the edges will 'rumple' and turn brown and crispy.
There is a paper from the Colorado Master Gardeners that explains the following:
"Iron chlorosis shows first and more severely on the newer growth at branch tips....It is common for iron chlorosis to show on a single branch or on one side of a tree. The primary symptoms of iron deficiency include interveinal chlorosis, a general yellowing of the leaves with the veins remaining green."
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Thank you so much for your comment. I suppose when the leaves are damaged by frost that's different from a leafless branch getting damaged, then producing new leaves (which was our case, as our roses are leafless until well into spring)--these new leaves on frost-damaged wood wouldn't look burnt? Just weak? But your quote on chlorosis seems convincing too.
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Initial post
24 MAR 12 by
Re
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Hello,
Send photos of roses accented with problems (disease?). I hope I can be clear enough to be properly displayed and belong to a total of 5 plants (4 M. Carriere, and Bourbon Queen) all climbing plants, in pots for more than 50l. The leaves of Mme Careers are very loose and hanging, as you can see from the photos, even the buds are folding. Can you help me, already last year is a dead Mme careers with the same symptoms.
I look forward to a courteous much detail (if possible) feedback and advice on possible interventions to be made.
thanks
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Hmmm... it looks like several problems could be going on at once. Firstly, how much sun are these plants getting each day? 6+ hours or more/less. Secondly, how long have they been in their pots? Thirdly, have they been fertilized? Fourthly, are they getting enough water?
The leaves with the dark green veins look chlorotic. This could be a nitrogen deficiency. The others that are yellow to brown could represent a potassium deficiency. In either case, fertilizing with a balanced, quick release fertilizing product may help. Have you checked for insects? Spider mite damage can cause leaves to spot, yellow and look chlorotic also.
If the roses have been in the same pots for some years, they could be root-bound and starved. Additionally, they could be taking up water very quickly and drying out between wettings. If the plants are getting too little sun (less than 4-6 hours per day) they can also become spindly and bare. Once one problem starts, others can take hold more easily because the plants are stressed. Does any of this help?
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#7 of 11 posted
24 MAR 12 by
Re
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Meanwhile, thanks for reply, the two careers are inserted under an arch, the right is a plant that is potted for over 2 years and takes a sun for more than three hours a day this season (take 5 to arrive in summer) , and i think he has enough water, the Careers left, is potted from 6 months, has the same problem and it is in front (2m) to the other, does not take much sun (2 hours in this period but the rays do not arrive the vessel). Recently I started to give specific fertilizer. The problem of spiders has been a big issue in September 2011, one week I started to spray a pesticide specifically for spiders. If the leaves with dark green veins appear chlorotic and you refer to the last photo (Bourbon queen) even it had last year a major attack of spider mites. This winter already Mme Careers died with them the same symptoms.
Please give me some advice on how to intervene Tenedos realize that I am a novice with the roses. In addition, I would point out that I have another 70 roses (ht, te, and bourbon, etc.) that are in flowering and seem to sufficiently lush-
I await your kind a consultation,
thanks
Renzo
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I looked over the photos of other roses in your garden. They are beautiful!
Regarding the Mme. Carriere and Bourbon Queen, I would do this: if the pots are 50L size then they should be quite large enough for plants 2 years old or less. I would make sure the plants are positioned to get as much sun as possible, at least 4 hours. Mme. Carriere and Bourbon Queen are both somewhat more tolerant of shade than other roses but will perform best with more sun- 6+ hours would be optimal. I would continue to fertilize them regularly using a quality, water soluble blend made specifically for roses. I have noticed that my potted roses seem to perform better with more feedings than those that are ground planted.
I would aggressively treat the plants for harmful insects, especially mites. I am having a battle with spider mites on one of my potted roses here in North Carolina right now! The mites seem to prefer potted roses instead of those in the landscape. They can defoliate a potted plant in a few days. Several insecticide treatments over the course of 2 or 3 weeks may be necessary to kill them all. And usually, once spider mites have been a problem, they will come back. Vigilance is important to stay ahead of them. I would use a broad spectrum insecticide that is labeled to kill both the mites and their eggs as well as any other common rose pests. Mites lay eggs in the soil near infested plants so treat the soil, canes, blooms and both sides of all the leaves.
I hope this well help your roses. I grow Mme. Carriere and the Bourbon, Kathleen Harrop. I love them both.
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#9 of 11 posted
25 MAR 12 by
Re
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thans for the compliment, mine is unfortunately only a small garden. I'm afraid that can not be mites (alyhough i still processing) because the lives are green clear and clean, while last year when they were attacked b the spider was gray....
Today, as the advice, igave to the iron rose to fight some chlorosis. I hope that the two Carriere can recover as soon as possible and will post the photo of their location....
Thanks again for suggeriment and i'm sorry for my bad english....
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#10 of 11 posted
25 MAR 12 by
 Jay-Jay
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Good luck Renzo.
I use ground volcanic lava (Eifelgold) for suppleting essential minerals.
There are volcano's too in Italy. Maybe You can obtain some.
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#11 of 11 posted
30 MAR 12 by
Re
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Hi Jay-Jay there are volcano in Italy but there are long way, what about these leaves????
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#2 of 11 posted
24 MAR 12 by
Jay-Jay
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Did You feed them lime/calcium?
It could be a shortage in iron, when they got to much calcium.
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#4 of 11 posted
24 MAR 12 by
Jay-Jay
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Your reply makes sense too!!! I just wanted to add another possible answer/solution to the problem
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Ha, no worries. I was just agreeing with you on another issue I didn't think of. I ain't all that :)
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#6 of 11 posted
24 MAR 12 by
Jay-Jay
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I just forgot to mention that in the earlier reply, for it was that obvious/agreeable to me!
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Initial post
21 JUN 10 by
Helen
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I was given a miniature rose plant on mothers' day, that was about 5 weeks ago. I live in Florida , and within a couple of weeks the leaves started to curl and then fall off. I followed the instructions about care, water , not too much sun and just kept it on the table in the patio. As the problem got worse I decided to bring the plant inside. That helped some, it revived itself, got new leaves and all, but last week the old leaves dropped off, then the new is drying and falling off. I would appreciate some advice/help as this is a gift from my children and they know that I take care of my flowers.
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Make sure your plant has good drainage. Many "gift" plants are in planted in pots and wrapped with foil to make them look prettier. The plant can't drain when watered and gets root rot.
Roses like sun. I rescued a plant like this for a friend by repotting it into a larger pot with good drainage. I placed the pot in filtered sun OUTSIDE and kept the plant moist, not wet, and the plant came back.
You might want to check out the archived Ezine article by Rory Lee about "Basic Miniature Rose Care".
Click on EZINE on the navigation bar to the left
Click on ARTICLES BY AUTHOR
Click on Rory Lee's name and the article will come up.
Click on the title and you are there.
Lyn
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#2 of 3 posted
12 JUL 10 by
Helen
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Lyn, Thanks for the info about the miniature rose plant that I received. I transplanted it into a larger container. I'm limiting the watering and just over the weekend I noticed some new growth. I am hoping that this is a recuperating sign. Thanks again, Helen
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You're welcome, Helen.
Smiles,
Lyn
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