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Rupert, Kim L.
Discussion id : 90-561
most recent 26 JAN 16 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 26 JAN 16 by Jay-Jay
It's nice to see the results of Your breeding program, Kim!
Reply #1 of 5 posted 26 JAN 16 by Rupert, Kim L.
Thank you, Jay Jay. There have been some fun things germinate. I'm glad you are enjoying them!
Reply #2 of 5 posted 26 JAN 16 by Jay-Jay
I'm already following You for days!
Am I now called a follower or a "stalker"?
Reply #3 of 5 posted 26 JAN 16 by Rupert, Kim L.
Reply #4 of 5 posted 26 JAN 16 by Jay-Jay
Thank You Sir!
Reply #5 of 5 posted 26 JAN 16 by Rupert, Kim L.
You're welcome! Thank YOU, Sir!
Discussion id : 85-547
most recent 8 JUN 15 SHOW ALL
Initial post 1 JUN 15 by Sambolingo
I would be interested in obtaining cuttings and/ or suckers from the fedtschenkoana hybrids "DLFED3" and "DLFED4." Would this be possible, and, if so, how could the money for postage be sent to you?
Thanks, Sam Cothron
Reply #1 of 7 posted 1 JUN 15 by Rupert, Kim L.
Hi Sam, I wish I could help you with those varieties. I moved three months ago and had to cull many roses for the move. The DLFED original seedlings now mainly exist in other peoples' gardens and not mine. I don't have them any longer. I do have the repeat flowering Oadefed and newer Fedtschenkoana hybrids which have not flowered yet and are not listed here on HMF. I'm sorry. You might check with the others who are listed here on the database who have them in their gardens. Thanks. Kim
Reply #2 of 7 posted 1 JUN 15 by Sambolingo
I was enticed by the tempting description "mossy DLFED" and "repeat DLFED"- I suppose it's unfortunate that you no longer have these plants. However, looking at the "OADEFED" listing, it too looks very interesting, and more or less has the qualities of the two DLFED plants I previously expressed interest in, with a remontant habit and bristly, rather fuzzy-looking new growth. I also looked at Paul Barden's work with this rose, and was intrigued by his descriptions of "potently fertile pollen" and a unique linseed oil fragrance of its offspring's flowers. Would it be possible for me to obtain cuttings or suckers of this rose?
Reply #3 of 7 posted 2 JUN 15 by Rupert, Kim L.
The Repeat flowering seedling didn't sucker and I never attempted rooting it. I have shared cuttings of it with others in the past. The mossy one grows in at least two other gardens I can think of. I will direct them to this to see if they are able and willing to provide pieces. Oadefed Repeat isn't suckering as I transplanted a sucker from the parent plant for the move, but cuttings can be taken if you're game to try rooting or budding it. Currently, there are hybrids of Fedtschenkoana using Ping Dong Yue Ji, Golden Angel, Secret's Out, IHTXLB and I think a few others, in the pot ghetto. It has been a while since I checked tags. None of these have flowered yet so I can't provide any information about what to expect from them yet. Most of them germinated last year and are the original seedlings. I also have a number of Hugonis hybrids using Hugonis itself and my 1-72-1Hugonis seedling from a number of different pollen parents. Tolhug is a repeat flowering seedling from that line. Please feel free to private message me with your address and we can work out getting you the cuttings. Thanks. Kim
Reply #4 of 7 posted 3 JUN 15 by Sambolingo
It seems I am unable to send a private message; when I attempt to, I'm met with a message that informs me you choose not to accept private messages.
Reply #5 of 7 posted 3 JUN 15 by Rupert, Kim L.
I'm sorry. My settings say I accept them and the last one I received as two weeks ago. I've private messaged you my email to make contact.
Reply #6 of 7 posted 7 JUN 15 by Goclon, Jakub
Dlfed 4 hates rooting. Rob and I both had difficulty. Do bud it.

Sambo, If you remind me in the fall, I might be able to get some Mossy Dlfed suckers out.
Reply #7 of 7 posted 8 JUN 15 by Sambolingo
Thank you so much! That would be greatly appreciated.
Discussion id : 76-127
most recent 25 JAN 14 SHOW ALL
Initial post 18 JAN 14 by Jeffrey
Is your sport of 'Crested Sweetheart' still setting hips, and if so, have you tried sowing any seeds? I'm mad for the cresting... I'd love to try for some seedlings myself.
Reply #1 of 7 posted 18 JAN 14 by Rupert, Kim L.
Hi Jeffrey, it wasn't my sport, but Ralph Moore's. Both he and Paul Barden sewed seed from it with terrible results. Either little germinated, or what did was weak and diseased. I've had much greater success using my April Mooncrest.
Reply #2 of 7 posted 19 JAN 14 by Jeffrey
'April Moon Crest' made me weak in the knees! If you ever release it for sale, please let me know.
Reply #3 of 7 posted 19 JAN 14 by Rupert, Kim L.
Thank you, Jeffrey. I've been quite pleased with April Mooncrest. It's very healthy, productive and fertile here, and is making healthy, vigorous, beautiful offspring. I'm evaluating a number of its seedlings from 2013. One is nicely crested and fades into a red central "halo". Another has burnished purple-green foliage which has turned brilliant red with the cooler weather yet shows no signs of being deciduous.
Reply #4 of 7 posted 19 JAN 14 by Jeffrey
Have you tried a back-cross of 'April Mooncrest' with 'Crested Moss' or 'Crested Jewel'? I'm adding a 'Crested Sweetheart' to my garden... Maybe cross it with something English, or with one of my own seedlings... I have a swell yellow in mind. I have a 'Chapeau de Napoleon', too. Is it pollen sterile as well as seed... with rare exception?
Reply #5 of 7 posted 19 JAN 14 by Rupert, Kim L.
No, I haven't attempted back crossing anything with Crested Moss or Crested Jewel. One of the issues with the crested hybrids I find offensive is their climbing habit. Overly long canes with very unattractive plant architecture make them very difficult to plant anywhere. The cresting needs to be bred on to a dwarf, bushy, heavily flowering, HEALTHY plant. Getting anything like that out of Crested Moss is difficult to begin with. Adding Little Darling to the mix exacerbates the problem. Crested Jewel has significantly better health in my climate than Crested Moss has, but it still isn't sufficiently healthy for my taste. That was why I made the original cross of April Moon X hopes of carrying the cresting forward only on a healthier plant. At least in my conditions, I've achieved that part. April Mooncrest also produces semi climbing growth, which is OK as it's more controlled than either Crested Moss, Crested Jewel or Crested Sweetheart. I seriously doubt the more controlled, dwarf growth could result from crossing the crested seedlings with Austin roses. At least in milder climates, far too many of Mr. Austin's products are rampant growers which should be expected. He has traditionally used climbing types as well as vigorous shrubs to produce his offerings to capture that increased vigor so they will perform as desired in harsher climates. Unleashing many of them in milder conditions too often results in overly vigorous plants, often at the expense of flowering, in my experience. Plus, until very recently, increased disease resistance hasn't been high on his list of trait priorities. Perhaps using some of the newer Kordes, maybe Tantau, offerings might result in increased health with them? Freedom from needing to spray has been higher on other breeders' radars than Mr. Austin's and it seems the results show those efforts better. The reported results on HMF indicate Crested Moss can set seed. Mr. Moore found its pollen more beneficial for his purposes. He also found mosses, in general, to be less fertile than non mossed types. Why, I don't know, but he frequently stated that seed production was low and fertility sparse. He also stated working with a mossy type for seed was a bear. The "moss" is juicy and sticky, not to mention prickly, leaving your hands quite messy and everything you touch, sticking to your fingers. Collecting any possible pollen and applying it to non mossed types is a far cleaner operation as is harvesting any resulting seeds.
Reply #6 of 7 posted 22 JAN 14 by Jeffrey
Thank-you for your wonderful insights re: mosses as pollen parents, climbers and etc. I think I prefer cresting to moss, but there are some mosses in my collection. I actually prefer climbers, but I have space in my garden. I LOVE using miniatures as lower hedging or edging where possible, so I go to the other extreme, as well.

Then, of course, I have shrubs, too.

I guess I just love roses in my landscape.

I'll keep looking for images of your crosses as you post them and if any come available commercially, consider me in line to buy.
Reply #7 of 7 posted 25 JAN 14 by Rupert, Kim L.
You're welcome Jeffrey, thank you. Though they aren't of crested lineage, I'm also eagerly watching some of the Pretty Lady X Lynnie seedlings from last year. Several have very attractive sepals and may be interesting to breed with the crested line.
Discussion id : 73-948
most recent 18 OCT 13 SHOW ALL
Initial post 7 SEP 13 by Michael Garhart
Kim, are you aware of any non-Peace oldie HTs down there there do not really get mildew? I have been thinking about using Golden State recently. For example, [(Yellow Brick Road x Winter Sunset) x Golden State], and so on idea-wise. It looks healthy here, but Oregon isn't really a mildew state...
Reply #1 of 18 posted 7 SEP 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
Hi Michael, are you looking for any older HT or yellow ones? I've never had any mildew issues on any Radiance type. I haven't grown Golden State, so I can't comment on it. What is your goal for the cross used as an example? Thanks.
Reply #2 of 18 posted 7 SEP 13 by Michael Garhart
Oh, they do not specifically have to be yellow whatsoever. I was just using a real example of something I can get locally. I am open to all sorts of whacky ideas, lol. My goal is to bring some HT traits in without destroying things like architecture and such. I also wanted to see if new colors (tones and combos, really) would emerge. Some of the oldies, like Buccaneer are too massive, though. I don't want to work with giant plants or dinner-plate blooms. Really, to be honest, I just want to try out new things for the sake of curiosity and experimentation. Peace, for example, owes some of its genetic dispersement to the idea that it produced really shiny, thick leaves, thick peduncles, straight stems, broad petals, unusual vigor, and, from what I read, the ability to pass on resistance to downy mildew (I forgot where I read this...), which plagued other roses before it. Well, we can breed against most of that stuff now. Picture is a WONDERFUL rose, and it is very non-Peace-like, but it mildews so badly --- and I think that would be easy to deal with, to be honest.
Reply #3 of 18 posted 7 SEP 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
If mildew is your target, I'd look at Maytime. Dr. Lammerts stood outside the office door at Sequoia and proclaimed it "immune to powdery mildew." In my experience, it is. Maytime can spot when that pressure is great, but it has never mildewed. Irish Fireflame also never mildewed anywhere I've grown it. I don't remember any mildew issues with Diamond Jubilee and with that breeding, surely there is something interesting to mine from it.
Reply #4 of 18 posted 7 SEP 13 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
I'm sorry to say, 'Maytime', container grown, mildewed for me in my climate.

I almost posted pics. I had it from Ingrid W.

I got it specifically because it was supposedly immune to mildew. Infection wasn't terrible, but it was not immune.

I hate mildew. I've been trying to breed away from it for years. Robert
Reply #5 of 18 posted 7 SEP 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
Mildew, like rust (and probably other diseases) can be forced by water stress. Your climate, Robert, even with copious watering, can produce extreme water stress very easily, particularly for anything container grown. I can force almost any rose (and most other plants) to mildew here by drying them out and over heating their root balls. I can, and have, forced container grown roses containing genes from Arkansana (including Arkansana itself) and Virginiana to rust severely in spring to early summer by drying them out and keeping them too dry. Increasing the water substantially permitted them to replace rusty foliage with clean, new growth until I cut back the water again, when they rusted, again. In the ground, both in Newhall, at the beach (where mildew and sawfly larvae are year-round issues) and here on my very dry, too fast draining, HOT, western facing hillside in Encino, Maytime is totally mildew free. Of course, your mileage will vary, but eliminating the odd causes, it's one of the best around for that issue.
Reply #6 of 18 posted 7 SEP 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
I was out looking at the roses a minute ago and remembered an excellent example of my point. I had to eliminate Heritage from a client's garden and my own because during heat spells with nearly no humidity, it rusted, black spotted and mildewed unless it was watered heavily, nearly daily. As long as it sat in mud, it would produce clean growth. Let it dry out at all and any decent foliage caught everything possible. Penelope mildews much of the year in Valencia, unless I flood it weekly with the hose. Barbra Streisand in that garden, grew in a difficult spot. Too narrow planter backed by stucco and plate glass, fronted by a two car wide, curved concrete drive. All through the dry summer heat, it was rusty, spotted and mildewed unless I kept at it with systemic soil drench fungicide. Once the rains hit and the heat was over, all the diseases went away. Too much heat with sufficient water stress can literally force otherwise healthy plants to contract many diseases.
Reply #7 of 18 posted 7 SEP 13 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Kim, all you say is true, but some NEVER mildew for me. These are those I try to carry forward.

'Maytime' didn't make the grade in my climate. That's why it's not here anymore.

Tom Carruth's stuff tends to stay clean. I know he's very particular when it comes to mildew.

Just my two cents. Thanks, Robert
Reply #8 of 18 posted 16 SEP 13 by Michael Garhart
Oh, I think we got off track. I was mostly looking for pre-WW2 HT types. I have access to roses like Maytime and more, so that is not an issue for me due to where I live, and I have a lot of my own hybrids that are very disease resistant, since that was always a focus of mine when too many society members passed away from cancer. I am just looking for HT's that are not a part of the Peace or Crimson Glory lines that would not be too intensive to bring their color patterns forward without bringing too many problems forward, too. And I know you have seen so many roses, plausibly even more than me.

One problem is that I do find some that would work, but they're climbing mutations (Cl. Picture, Cl. Shot Silk, and so on), which is infuriating. I need more climbing seedlings like I need a hole in my head, lol. I can, however, get cuttings of Golden State and Neville Chamberlain from Washington Park, with permissions, but I don't really see much other like these roses, except Etoile de Holland, which is basically twigs and mildew, lol.
Reply #9 of 18 posted 16 SEP 13 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
I used 'Innocence' for a time. It never mildewed here. I'm not sure bout BS resistance. It's easily fertile both directions. You might look at the other purportedly R. x hibernica derived singles as well. Just a thought. R-
Reply #10 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Michael Garhart
There is a huge bed of Mrs. Oakley Fisher here, and its good example for why other lines bring in uniqueness. I have watched this rose for years, and the color pattern does not match other apricot-orange roses, and I have only seen that sherbert tone in one other rose -- Winter Sunset. They both lack red pigment. However, Mrs. O.F. only fades to a lesser version of its color, and WS fades to white. My own canina seedlings seem to hold on to color better than most, too. The singles are believed to be descendants of canina, but who knows really. With that said, I could see that some of the single HTs of yesteryear, combined with very double shrub roses, could have merit.
Reply #11 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
Look at Frances Fisher, Michael. Not "great", but definitely interesting.
Reply #12 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Michael Garhart
hah! cool. Dr. Grill seems very potent down its lineage. I wondered if it had red stamens, but I don't see an open bloom pic. Have you considered crossing your critter to a modern persica type, like Peace and Love(Warner)?
Reply #13 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
Actually, I hadn't. I was amazed that this Warner Hulthemia actually IS available from Certified Roses! It's on their web site.
Reply #14 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Michael Garhart
I'm not. That rose is AMAZING. I have watched it for the years it was on a trial. I have no idea how it didn't win. It essentially looks like a Flower Carpet rose, with persica blooms, and they LAST.
Reply #15 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Rupert, Kim L.
Now, to find one! I added a few more photos to Frances Fisher so you can see more of it open.
Reply #16 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Michael Garhart
Lowe's should have them in February. If not, Fred Meyers will, and I can always send one. Same goes for Robert -- not that any of us need more roses :P
Reply #18 of 18 posted 18 OCT 13 by Michael Garhart
I took a pic of one of seedlings bred from the shrubs, Yellow Brick Road and Winter Sunset, that have behaved disease-free for 2 years now. I'm thinking of crossing it with Columbia. It is a pastel yolk yellow, which is a tendency of Winter Sunset, but that pale color is the only low merit I have experienced with it.

There is a display of 'The Finest' at Washington Park, which is a hybrid tea on a shrub plant, like Knock Out. It looks amazing, and I think its a great concept.

Some seeds in my germination bed have already begun to germinate. Someone needs to tell them to wait until March.
Reply #17 of 18 posted 17 SEP 13 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Certified is marketing 'Peace and Love' as 'Raspberry Fizz'. They are featuring it heavily. I've seen it growing in the field there. It's said quite disease resistant. The blotch shows better when the weather is cool. As you said, it stays low, almost a ground cover type. Chances are distribution will be wide, maybe a retailer near you (us).
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