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Discussion id : 28-328
most recent 15 OCT 06 SHOW ALL
 
Reply #1 of 1 posted 31 AUG 06 by Anonymous-164261
I live in Richmond, Va and have some beautiful peonies that were my Grandmothers for years and years.  My question is we are planning to move early next spring and I want to take the peonies with me, here in Richmond they bloom every mid May.  Should I dig the bulbs up this fall and store until I move or wait until spring?
REPLY
Reply #2 of 1 posted 15 OCT 06 by Anonymous-164261
I had to move a year ago last May so dug my peonies and planted them in their new location then.  They bloomed the following month. (Peonies bloom in June in this part of Ontario.)  Although only a few had any blooms this year they all lived and I hope they will be adjusted and bloom next June.
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Discussion id : 28-317
most recent 28 JUN 06 HIDE POSTS
 
Reply #1 of 0 posted 28 JUN 06 by Kate
How often?  How much should I water my 3 peonie plants?  They have just come up for the first time this week....... (newly planted bare roots)  I am afraid that I have planted them too close together.  Should I dig up and give more room NOW or wait ?  Thank you for your reply (s)
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Discussion id : 28-307
most recent 5 JUL 06 SHOW ALL
 
Reply #1 of 2 posted 15 JUN 06 by Novice

A follow-up to my last cut 'n paste exercise re the care of peonie plants. This is about the tree variety. Happy reading


Tree Peony Care


Where should I plant my tree peony?


Tree peonies are extremely hardy and will survive almost anywhere, in both sun or shade. They prefer an airy, reasonably open situation as air movement around the plant helps prevent fungal diseases like peony wilt. However, avoid a completely exposed situation where flower petals could blow away quickly and shorten the life of the flowers.


These plants begin to grow very early in the year and young developing buds can be damaged by frost if exposed to early morning sunshine. Ideally, plant your tree peony where this can't happen, i.e. a north, south or west facing aspect.


Soil


Generally speaking tree peonies prefer a fertile yet well drained soil, large amounts of organic matter are not especially useful. They favour a neutral to slightly alkaline soil. Clay, chalk or sand is fine as long as they don't become too dry in the summer or very wet in the winter.


Receiving your Tree Peony


Containerised specimens are shipped all year round and can be kept in their pots as long as is necessary but take care that they don't dry out.


Bare root tree peonies will be sent when dormant, usually in early winter. Unpack straight away. If you are unable to plant for a few days, or even several weeks, gently place bare root tree peonies into a pot with some moist potting compost, soil or sand. Keep in a cool place such as a shed or porch, or under a large shrub.


Planting


Bare root tree peonies can be planted during winter and early spring but not if the soil is frozen. Containerised plants can be planted all the year round but if planted in late spring or summer, they will need to be watered regularly.


Dig a large planting hole, incorporating some bonemeal or a general fertiliser into the soil. Add a small amount of well rotted garden compost or manure if you wish. We do not recommend peat as a planting medium because of its acidity.


Plant bare rooted tree peonies deeply. If your plant is grafted (French, American and Japanese hybrids), the graft union should be at least 8cm below the soil. This will encourage the tree peony (scion) to make its own roots and basal shoots. Chinese varieties are propagated by division and don't have a graft union and deep planting encourages new growth from beneath the soil.


Pot grown, rootballed or containerised specimens of all types should be planted slightly deeper than the soil level in the pot.


Water well after planting and during the following summer.


Subsequent Cultivation


Usually a tree peony will grow away producing large handsome leaves and often some new shoots from the base. However, the main stem may not produce a shoot from the tip. Depending on the size of the plant you buy, flowering can happen any time from the first year to 4 years from planting.


Sometimes a newly planted tree peony will appear to make little growth, if any, in its first season but all its activity happens underground. Providing the foliage looks reasonably healthy, don't panic. This may just be a 'settling in' period. Occasionally the main stem may die back a little. Although this might be worrying, wait until the next spring when vigorous growth should resume from the lower part of the stem or even from below soil level.


If your plant is grafted (French, American and Japanese types), look out for suckers from the herbaceous rootstock and cut these off at ground level. The foliage is quite different from that of the grafted tree peony. Wait until you are sure these suckers are from the rootstock before removing them as your tree peony will also produce basal shoots and these are what you want.


Feeding


Tree peonies are heavy feeders but dislike large doses of fast acting nitrogenous fertilisers. They respond well to a generous, early autumn top dressing of blood, fish and bone, a slow release organic fertiliser. Its high potash content encourages flowers to develop. A light sprinkling of a general fertiliser such as Growmore can be applied in the spring if you wish.


Pruning


Tree peonies respond well to pruning. You should aim for a broad, multistemmed shrub of up to 120-150cms in height which will not need staking. Chinese and American types have a naturally branching habit and will need less regular pruning than the Japanese and French types.


In February, just as the growth buds are swelling, trim off all the dead wood. You will often find that the new shoots are coming from lower down the stem, leaving a small dead spur. Whole branches will sometimes die. These should be pruned back to a live bud, or to just above ground level.


With a young plant, only remove dead wood during the first two years to help get the plant established . Don't be tempted to prune. After this if your plant forms a good shape, no regular pruning is needed. However, if your plant has few stems and is poorly shaped, then prune hard. You may see buds at the base of the stem or shoots coming from below the soil. Prune back to these or down to 15cms or less from the ground. Even if you can't see any basal buds, adventitious ones will form.


The best time to prune is early spring, although this may mean that you sacrifice some flowers in the coming year. You can prune directly after flowering but regrowth is slower.


If you have, or inherit, an older tree peony which has never been pruned, it can be transformed and rejuvenated by applying this technique. It is best to prune just one main stem each year, cutting it down to about 15 cms. It takes courage to do this, but is usually successful.


Moving a Tree Peony


There's no need to worry about moving even a large, mature tree peony. Just move it during early autumn as you would any other woody deciduous shrub.Tree Peonies in PotsTree peonies can be grown successfully for several years in a large container (at least 30cms diameter) and make very fine pot plants. When planting, it is important to use a soil based compost such as John Innes No.3


Your plant should be grown outdoors during the summer, autumn and winter. In the spring, when the flower buds swell, you could move it into a cool conservatory to enjoy the blooms but be sure to return the plant outside when the flowers fall. Tree peonies must be outside in winter as cold temperatures are needed to form the flower buds.


Peony Wilt


Tree peonies rarely suffer problems from pests and are unpalatable to rabbits and deer. The only disease you are likely to encounter is peony wilt. This may appear in early spring, usually before flowering. There are no longer any chemicals with label recommendations for the control of fungal diseases on tree peonies. Good hygiene and cultural practices are the key to preventing and dealing with fungal attack. Maintain a good air flow around the tree peonies by not overcrowding them with other plants, particularly at ground level.


The fungal spores of peony wilt can overwinter on old foliage so it's important to pick up and burn old leaves in the autumn. With deep planting, good hygiene and regular observation, although peony wilt may appear occasionally, it rarely causes serious damage to a mature plant.

REPLY
Reply #2 of 2 posted 4 JUL 06 by WARREN

Thank you Novice.  To date this is the most info I have seen.  We puchased a Peony from a small nursry that was going out of business, several years ago.  We placed it in a garden near a rose colored peonie.  After a year or two, to our suprise it produced large yellow flowers.  There appears to be large seed pods.  Can these pods be used to grow new plants, and if so, your coaching on storage and use is solicited.


Warren


 

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Reply #3 of 2 posted 5 JUL 06 by Novice

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm!?? We have tried a number of times to use the seed pods and in theory it should work otherwise why would they produce the things. We have had no luck but I have to say that our efforts were little more than half-hearted as we already we have 14 mature plants and they are in danger of becoming like Triffids!!!!!!


It was suggested to me that if you place some sort of tray/piece of card lodged somehow underneath the pods you may well catch the seeds as the mature and fall because take the pods too early and there is every chance of nothing happening as we found out.


If you have success let me know although where we would put them is anyones guess. The only thing we may try to do is to grow from seed some of the perfumed(slight) ones as I have an aged mother who is losing her sight and I am trying to turn the garden into a "smelly" one. If you happen to know of any varieties that are strongly scented I would be grateful


Novice

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Discussion id : 28-306
most recent 5 JUL 06 SHOW ALL
 
Reply #1 of 2 posted 15 JUN 06 by novice

for all of those who were asking about care of their plants I have cut and pasted some information I found on a web site of a firm who specialise in these flowers. I have aslo included their web address for your information.


Peony care


Where should I plant my peony?Peonies are extremely hardy and adaptable plants. For preference plant in a sunny or lightly shaded spot. Your peony will grow best in full sun where it will produce the maximum number of blooms. You can expect fewer flowers in light shade but these will last longer. Single flowered varieties seem to do better in shade than doubles.Peonies will grow in most soils provided they are not too wet and are adequately drained. They do well on chalk and in fact prefer slightly alkaline conditions. If your soil is acidic include a handful or two of lime at planting.A heavier soil is preferable to a light one. If you have a light soil add some loam or well rotted organic matter if you can get hold of some. This will improve moisture retention.If your garden is at high altitude or in a very exposed and windy area, taller varieties will need staking.Receiving Your PeonyKelways send out peonies in the autumn and winter, as this is the best time to plant but they can be planted in early spring. Don't try to plant if your ground is frozen.You will have been sent a dry peony crown which has 3 or more white or pink buds. On unpacking, soak the crown in water for a couple of hours. This will replace any moisture lost in the post. Don't worry if you see a white fungal bloom on parts of the roots. This is quite normal.If you can't plant your peony for a few days or even a few weeks, bed it gently in a pot or tray of peat, sand or potting compost. Keep it moist and in a cold dark place and it will be fine.Pot grown peonies can be bought all year round and can be planted any time your soil is workable.PlantingTaking a little time to prepare the soil before planting will bring rewards. After all, your peony will probably remain in the same spot for many years. Dig a large hole at least 30 cms (12 ins) deep. Mix in some well rotted manure or compost and a handful of bonemeal or general fertiliser.The most important planting instruction is:AVOID PLANTING TOO DEEP.The top of the crown should be no more than 5 cms (2 ins) below the soil surface.Planting too deeply is the most common reason for a peony failing to flower.Containerised plants are already potted at the correct level, so be guided by this and plant to the same level. Don't worry if the compost falls away while you are planting.Firm the soil around the eyes of the peony. If you are planting a group of peonies allow about 75 cms (30 ins) between the plants. Flowering normally starts from the 2nd year after planting.Caring for Established PlantsPeonies will live for 50 years or more; although they can survive considerable neglect, they will reward any extra care you can give.In the autumn cut down the dead foliage at ground level and clear it away. Top dress with a handful of bonemeal or general fertiliser.If your soil is particularly heavy or sandy, mulch lightly with well rotted manure or compost. Take care, as excessive mulching may encourage fungal diseases. Avoid mulching on top of the crown or your plant may become too deeply buried. Mulch in a circle about 15-20 cms (6-9 ins) around the peony.If your soil is acidic, an occasional top dressing with lime will prove beneficial.Moving and DividingAlthough peonies seem to go on forever, they begin to lose vigour after 10 years and would benefit from being dug up and split. This is best done in the early autumn as the foliage dies down.The crown should be carefully lifted and the soil washed away to expose the eyes. Using a heavy knife or even a small pruning saw, remove any large pieces of dead, woody root and then cut the crown into pieces each containing about 3-5 eyes. These can be replanted, preferably in a fresh site.Pests and DiseasesPeonies are remarkably pest and disease tolerant. Generally rabbits don't touch them. Vigorous, well grown plants rarely need any treatment in the garden.The most common problems are fungal diseases. Botrytis or Peony Wilt can cause stems to rot and collapse, usually just before or after flowering. Cladosporium can cause brown blotches which turn black on the leaves from July onwards.Generally neither of these conditions will kill a peony. There are no longer any chemicals with label recommendations for the control of fungal diseases on peonies. Good hygiene and cultural practices are the key to preventing and dealing with any fungal attack. Maintain a good air flow around the peonies by not overcrowding them with other plants, particulary at ground level. If any stems collapse with Botrytis , or if any leaves become spotty, remove them immediately which will help prevent the spread of infection. In the autumn cut off all the foliage and dispose of to prevent reinfection the following spring.AntsAs the flower buds develop they exude a sweet and sticky sugary substance which often runs down the stem. This is a magnet to ants which often can be seen crawling all over the plants. Don't worry. They don't damage your peony.Growing Peonies in PotsYou can successfully grow and flower your peony in a pot or container provided a few simple rules are followed:-1. Choose a pot at least 30 cms (12 ins) in diameter and with adequate drainage holes at the base.2. Use a soil based compost such as John Innes No 3 or a mixture of peat or coir and loam. Peonies don't grow well in a soiless or loamless compost.3. Don't allow the compost to fluctuate continually from being too wet or too dry.If you follow these cultural instructions your peony should thrive. We hope that it will give you many years of pleasure


 


http://www.kelways.co.uk/acatalog/Care_of_your_Peony.html


 

REPLY
Reply #2 of 2 posted 28 JUN 06 by Dawn Potvin

Hello,


I am new to gardening.  I chose to plant peonies.  i am not sure which ones I have planted.  They are now 2 years old and have started bluming.  I had 6 blumes and someone has ripped them off of the branches and now the buds sthat were just starting on those branches have all died.  How do I prevent this from happing again.  I have clipped all the dead buds, was this the right thing to do.  Will this ruin any chance of new ones on the same branches.  Also,  I am not sure if I am suppose to clip the blooms when they die, if so how far down do I clip them.

REPLY
Reply #3 of 2 posted 5 JUL 06 by Novice

Two things you can do.


Firstly find the little s***s who did this and castrate them!!!!!!!!!!!


Secondly and less likely to get you into hot water is to carefully dead-head the plants. I am talking about plants NOT tree type.


You must leave the plant in situ and with all of its greenery. This will allow the leaves to feed the plant and its roots ready for next seasons growth. You can cut the plant right back to about 3 inches above the ground when it has turned brown. Some peole find this phase of the plant its most pleasing as some of them do have some very attractive shades as they die back in the autumn/fall. As why the other buds died I can only hazard a guess and that is because the ants did not remove the sweet sticky coating on the buds.


If you weren't aware the buds have a sticky coating and they will not develop unless thatcoating is removed. The most effective way is to allow ants to do it. They will not harm the plant and are the most effective. Some people see their plants covered with ants and will use an insecticide to kill the ants and very often they wonder why their plant hasn't bloomed and blame it on the spray


Hope this helps


Novice

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