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Discussion id : 18-694
most recent 11 MAY 07 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 11 MAY 07 by indoor rose garden

A new neighbor moved in and tore all 18 of the bushes out. So much for taking care of neighbors' rose gardens.


Now four of the plants have blooms, three have buds and three don't have buds yet. All in two months from transplant!


All but one or two of the transplants have new growth. About half have had enough to put fertilizer on. One has a rose bud.


All but a few of the 9 new bushes are doing well. 3 have new growth.

June transplant --- Now we're pulling out all of our big evergreen shrub property border and will be putting shrub roses in - the ones with small roses. A friend is also giving us four beautiful rose bushes - one has roses that are huge!! They look like they are six inches across. They look like the Doctor Brada's Rosa Druschki to me.

We're being given all of the bushes. Eventually we will buy our favorites - Joseph's coat, Fourth of July, Brass Band, Full Sail, Angel Face, Scentimental and a few others. In the meantime, these are beautiful.

I picked up some fertilizer from the local Rose Society. We'll see how the roses do with that.
Soon I'll be able to upload some ******PHOTOS****** :)


Two of the bushes I planted last Friday have new growth, so I put plant food on them. Two are totally dried up and the other six or seven are somewhere in between. At least two will make it. Mayber four or five, we'll see. The man who pulled them may be pulling quite a few more in a couple of weeks, but because he knows that I will be planting them, he will be very gentle. ----------------- ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A JUNE TRANSPLANT? ---------------- Should I do any thing now to prepare the bushes? Should I cut them back now, CUT them back just before they are dug up or cut them back after they are planted? I guess I could PREPARE THE GROUND. The dirt looks like BEIGE CLAY. I have never seen dirt like it. I am sure it needs lots of organic matter. I could send it in for a soil evaluation.


A couple of the transplanted bushes are withering up. They are of couple of the ones that I could tell were in the worst shape. Most look happy.


I planted them yesterday and they look happy today. Fortuneately, it was somewhat overcast and a mild day. It was overcast and cool today, also. I realize that cut roses can look good for several days. How the bushes look next weekend will probably be a better indicator of how they will do. I continue to water them and I put Miracle grow potting soil on top of them. Not much. I hope the soil helps and doesn't overwork the plants.
Also, the Queen Elizabeth Floribunda that fell over a couple of months ago is doing well. I haven't transplanted it, but I did cut it back and got it upright again.
When I put my double delight, that had been indoors all fall and winter, outside all of the leaves fell off right away and new growth is coming in.


I had no choice but to transplant at about noon. A neighbor had decided to take out about nine of his rose bushes 'weedstyle'. In other words he dug them up to throw them away. Some of them have quite a bit of the roots left in a big dirt mound, but some are pretty chopped off. I brought them to a shady spot, then clipped them back to about knee height making sure I clipped all of the buds off. I then dug holes for them in a sunny location, prayed, filled the holes with water and put the roses in the hole, and put the dirt back. Now all I can do is wait and see which make it?
Discussion id : 13-178
most recent 14 JUL 06 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 11 JUL 06 by chip wagner
I have  a rose bush I would like to seperate and plant the other half some where else how would I do that?
Reply #1 of 4 posted 13 JUL 06 by Wendy C.

Chip, if your rose is on it's own roots what you propose is possible. If, on the other hand, it's a grafted variety this won't be doable.

On a grafted rose all of the canes will come from a knobby piece of wood (bud union) at the base of the plant.  It may be below soil level so you really need to look. You may find own rooted canes on a grafted rose and those you can move.

An ownroot rose doesn't have a bud union. All of the canes will show signs of white feeder roots. To seperate these you need to isolate a nice healthy cane and carefully dig it up so that the roots aren't damaged. You can plant/pot these up one their own or in groups.  The main roots on these can be pretty long so be patient and thorough.

Best of Luck

Reply #2 of 4 posted 13 JUL 06 by Jody
Wendy this is a great explantion. You explain things very clearly. When you do transplant , do you add B1 to prevent shock? Jody
Reply #3 of 4 posted 13 JUL 06 by Wendy C.
Thank you Jody. I used to use B1, but have not noticed a difference when I don't.  I transplant at the coolest part of the day when they are growing (I perfer to wait until they are dormant).  If you are very careful to dig at the drip line of the bush, gently lifting as you go, you will get most of the root ball. You can then move the rose to its new home. I mound them with mulch and keep well watered until the roots reestablish. During the growing season it is wise to prune the bush back , so it isn't stressed by all of the extra foliage to support on comprimised roots.
Reply #4 of 4 posted 14 JUL 06 by Jody
Chip, Good luck with your transplanting. what rose are you moving? let us know how it goes,  and  Wendy thanks again..   Jody
Discussion id : 12-266
most recent 19 MAY 06 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 17 MAY 06 by Anonymous-102199
    Hello, everyone.  I am a resident of Cincinnati, OH.  I am 23 years old and I have been gardening for about 3 years.  Recently  I received a Snow Sunblaze ( variety: meighivon) rose bush for Mother's day.  I kept it in the store container, sitting in the front window,  for about  2 days. Even though I kept the soil moist, I noticed that the bottom leaves are turning yellow, and the blooms are turning brown.  After  that, I planted it in the ground,  and I would like some advice on how to keep the rose from wilting early this season.  I've had lots of luck with the other flowers I have planted this year like; cosmos, bachloer buttons, gladiolus, forget-me-nots, and a lilac bush.  I have never tried roses before. If someone has one that has been successful,  please share your secret with me.  I would like to know how  big they will get, if  they will grow up or out,  and any tricks for transplanting  them, once we move to a new house next year.  Thanks!
Reply #1 of 2 posted 17 MAY 06 by William


First, it's a good idea to plant a potted rose so small in a location where it will get early moring sun for at least 6 to 8 hours (this way the evening sun doesn't cook it).  Bottom leaves turning yellow usually mean that either your rosebush isn't getting enough drainage or not enough iron, maganese or magnesium.  The one easiest ones to replace is in the form of epsom salts (just place about 1/8 cup around base of plant and water in) or get some trace minerals as a supliment or a good time release fertalizer with lots of nitogen (about 16%).  Roses love lots of water but don't like it to stay around long.  This condition can cause a rose to use more trace minerals quicker (that is why water soluable - time release fertalizers are best).  As far as transplanting our company (Jackson & Perkins) has a great product called Root Boost sold thru our catalog and retail stores. Root Boost contains at least 7 of the following Microbes (most in thousands per cubic centimeter of soil): Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon villosuli, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigelba, Glomus mosseae, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola, Gigaspora margarita, Glomus intraradices, Glomus monosporus, and Glomis brasilianum. These are beneficial fungi that occur naturally in healthy soil. They form a link between the plant roots and the surrounding soil. This means that the plant will establish quicker because it has better water and nutrient uptake. This in turn reduces transplant shock, fertilizer requirements and plant diseases due to weak growth. This product can be used along with fertilizer such as Once, Rose & Flower Food, etc… It is non-toxic to animals and fish.  Hope the information is useful.

William  - J & P Customer Service

Reply #2 of 2 posted 19 MAY 06 by Wendy C.

I agree with William, your yellowing leaves were most likely from over watering or poor drainage. Now that it's outside in the ground that shouldn't be as large an issue.

Epsom salt is a very good idea. I would also feed it. Whatever you are feeding everything else should be fine. The roses don't really care what you feed them so long as they are fed.

I don't grow this particular minature rose, so I can't comment on how large it will get.

When you move, carefully dig about 2 inches out from the leaves of the bush. Do your level best to get all of the roots. It will do much better if it is cool when it is dug up. Put it in a 1 gallon nursery pot filling in with a good potting soil and water it well.

Welcome to growing roses. In my not so humble opinion there is nothing else quite like them.

Best of Luck

Discussion id : 9-875
most recent 30 AUG 05 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 28 AUG 05 by grdnstff
i work as a maintenance gardener and have a project to replace climbing roses with clematis .. i would like to know the best way to approach the roses so i can pot them up, and then, hopefully, plant them in another garden .. none of these roses have done particularly well where they are, but i'm not prepared to give up on them .. i'm of a mind that there is a possibility of rejuvenating them .. can anyone help me with this? thank you ..
Reply #1 of 1 posted 30 AUG 05 by Wendy C.
General moving instruction would be; Prune the rose back to knee height or so.
Dig around the drip line of the bush to get as much of the root ball as possible.
If you can do this in the cool of the AM or early Evening it's easier on the rose.
Water well. Resist the urge to feed the rose until it starts putting on new growth.

Climbers can take up to three years to fully come into their own.

Good Luck
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