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'Crown Princess Margareta ®' rose Reviews & Comments
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I bought this rose in the January this year and put it in a pot to see if I liked the color, I do and would like to put it in the ground this year. Does anyone know how big it grows? It appears to want to grow big and climb. I'm in zone 7, Northern Ca. Any advice would be appreciated.
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It has been in the ground for about a year in my Zone 10 garden. Nice spreading habit, unlike other Austins around here that want to go straight up and bloom once at the top of one giant cane. Kind of a floppy habit actually, which I like. But the claim that the "average bloom" is 4" in diameter is wishful thinking. More like 3.
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Mine has been in the ground for 2 years, also in Zone 10. The first year it moped a bit, but has begun to send up some big new canes this year. Next year, I expect it will really take off. The flowers are lovely -- a true orange in the cool spring weather -- full of petals, but no way are they 4 inches. Three inches seems reasonable. The new growth is a lovely coppery bronze and looks great with the flowers. Rebloom has been very good indeed, but until a good scaffolding of larger canes are in place, I don't think I'm going to see the plant covered in flowers all at once. Instead, I have had to content myself with nearly continuous flowers, but only a few at a time. That is NOT a complaint.
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How did she do in hot zone 10 summer? And how big has she gotten? I'm also in zone 10 and love this rose.
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Even in my zone 5a with winter-kill & plus I prune CPM below my knees early spring: As own-root CPM is a giant here and occupies at least 6 feet wide space, and throw 7 feet canes in late fall. Double the dimension and you'll get the space needed for warm zone with no winter-kill.
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I also grow Lady of Shalott (on sale for $12 this June-week at Roses Unlimited). Lady of Shalott occupies much less space than CPM. CPM tends to fade to light yellow in hot sun, but Lady of Shalott retains its intense copper-orange, even in hot weather. Carding Mill is even smaller & compact as own-root, and it has this glorious copper/pink hue. Carding Mill is the most suitable for hot & dry weather, Lady of Shalott needs tons of rain to bloom well. My Carding Mill is like a mini-rose, 1 ' x 1' as own-root, so it will be 2' x 2' for hot climate as own-root.
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I have carding mill. Got it as a 5 gallon from a local nursery, planted less than a month ago and it's already 2 x 2. I think it's going to get bigger here. I bought Lady of Shalott for my moms house (20 minutes away). Still hasn't flowered when my bare roots have been flowering for months. I bet it's not getting enough water. I'll let her know! It looks like I'm getting six roses from Roses unlimited.
Barbra Streisand (didn't even want a purple flowered rose but found a spot where I absolutely NEED her! :)
Bronze Star
Folklore
Versigny
Voodoo
Medallion
Most I already had on my list but I'm going to have to figure out where to squeeze in Versigny and Bronze star.
Thanks for the tip!
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Lady of Shalott gave me hell as 1st-year-own root, I kept moving it around 3 times since it failed to flower in the best potting soil & tons of acidic rain. It has those skinny & tiny leaves (typical of multiflora). That rose needs LOAMY and loose soil & SOLUBLE fertilizer, high in potassium & calcium, NPK 8-20-40, plus soluble gypsum. Lady of Shalott doesn't liked dense heavy clay, nor dense & wet peat moss in potting soil. Multiflora is a hairy cluster root, and can't handle dense soil like the woody-stick of Dr.Huey rootstock.
Second year Lady of Shalott finally produce buds, after I fed it well with MG-fertilizer, plus extra sulfate of potash & gypsum to pump out blooms. We are in a dry spell, 3 weeks of no rain, but it's pumping out blooms.
Congratulations on your choices. Versigny and Bronze star are best in pots (with Moisture-control-potting soil ... both are waterhogs and need a huge amount of SOLUBLE fertilizer to pump out the many petals in Versigny, and the large 7 inch. bloom of Bronze Star. Both will remain small as own-root as long as you keep NPK 8-20-40 to force it to bloom. I give NPK 20-20-20 for pots until they are big enough (like Miracid), then I switch to NPK 8-20-40 to control the size and to force more blooms. Gypsum (calcium sulfate) is given weekly to de-salt the salty chemicals, calcium is necessary to form leaves, stem, and flowers.
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Does this produce open-pollinated hips (hips from bee pollination, not human hybridizers)?
Thanks, Nate
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#1 of 3 posted
11 FEB 17 by
 Jay-Jay
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Yes, it does set some and the OP seeds germinate very eager and well!
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You're the best Jay-Jay!!!
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#3 of 3 posted
12 FEB 17 by
Jay-Jay
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I am in the pacific northwest and planted this rose in 2012, it grew well and had lots of blooms in it's first year. Unfortunately whenever it rained the flowers became very heavy and sort of melted into a slimy mess. I have it in a large pot right now while i make a new rose bed against the house partly under the eaves. i am hoping this will help preserve the blooms when it rains as it is a beautiful rose with a wonderful fragrance. Anyone else have this problem with it?
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I have my CPM planted in heavy alkaline clay, with a limestone layer underneath. CPM is aggressive as own-root, secret plenty of acid to go uphill into the rock-hard-clay area. No balling nor mushy problem here, despite heavy rain. It was stingy in its 1st year, then I gave it sulfate of potash and it blooms lots in partial shade (less than 5 hours of sun). Very healthy as own-root in my dolomitic clay.
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Growing back strongly from its first winter at zone 5b near Syracuse, NY. Not too much die-back about 10" living above ground (never got very large its first season, I planted late...)
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