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'Rhapsody in Blue ™' rose Reviews & Comments
Discussion id : 119-700
most recent 7 JAN HIDE POSTS
Initial post 7 JAN by CybeRose
Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 51: 4990-4994. (2003)
Origin of the Color of Cv. 'Rhapsody in Blue' Rose and Some Other So-called “Blue” Roses.
Jean-François Gonnet

Cyanin is probably "trapped" into AVIs at higher concentrations than would be possible in a vacuolar solution and in quinonoidal form, appearing purple-blue because of additional absorption in the 580-630 nm area. Quite similar pigmentation features were found in very ancient rose cultivars (cv. L’Evêque or Bleu Magenta), also displaying this type of so-called "blue" color.
Discussion id : 113-561
most recent 24 MAY 19 SHOW ALL
Initial post 15 OCT 18 by Plazbo
First bloom today. No obvious sign of red/pink behind it like there is with Ebb Tide, much more even and far cooler hued tone. It's not blue (obviously) but it's a much cleaner colour.

-edit 3 Nov 2018-
Has been fairly easy to get pollen from. It's bloom shape is a bit irregular/untidy but so far fairly decent plant. Has quite a number of BS and powdery mildew plants nearby, isn't showing either issue.
Reply #1 of 4 posted 23 MAY 19 by raingreen
Have you found RIB to resist heat scald? As you had observed for the Carruth rose Scentimental, I've seen Ebb Tide showing leaf burn after 104 F/40 C temps. In the same garden, the adjacent rose Julia Child, also bred by Carruth, was a healthy green color and much more heat tolerant.

Thanks, Nate
Reply #2 of 4 posted 23 MAY 19 by Plazbo
I don't recall...probably means it wasn't particularly bad. That or it wasn't flowering so didn't catch my eye, it hasn't been too productive with flowering, still building itself up.
Reply #3 of 4 posted 23 MAY 19 by Margaret Furness
RIB varies a lot from climate zone to climate zone. It does well in my slightly acid loam over clay, climate zone 9b, with a peak to 45C last summer. Didn't worry it. However I've decided that the colour doesn't fit in well with my oldies, so it's going to go.
Reply #4 of 4 posted 24 MAY 19 by raingreen
k thanks
Discussion id : 77-130
most recent 16 NOV 16 SHOW ALL
Initial post 12 MAR 14 by CarolynB
Can someone explain to me exactly what the term "sulks in heat" means (which I see for this rose and a few others)? What exactly does a rose do (or not do) when it's "sulking" due to heat?

I would love to try growing this rose, but I live in an area with hot dry summers. I'd like to have some idea what to expect before trying a rose that might do badly in my climate. Thanks for any information anyone can give.
Reply #1 of 10 posted 12 MAR 14 by Margaret Furness
Views of this rose vary widely. In my slightly-acid clay, with hot dry summers, it is cheerful all the time.
Reply #2 of 10 posted 13 MAR 14 by Patricia Routley
It is an English-bred rose. If the distributor says "sulks in heat" it means it won't flower as much as it does in cooler conditions.
Reply #3 of 10 posted 13 MAR 14 by CarolynB
Thank you both for your replies. For a rose this pretty and unusual, I could live with it not blooming during the hot summer, if it does that here. If it defoliates or gets a lot of leaf burn from the heat, however, that would be a different story. Any comments on that? (I had one rose that always looked nice in early spring, then always looked completely horrible with leaf burn all through the summer. So, I hope to avoid encountering that again.)
Reply #4 of 10 posted 14 MAR 14 by Margaret Furness
It doesn't defoliate in my garden, doesn't burn more than average. Your best bet is to find a rose nursery in your area that stocks it, and have a look at it there in mid-summer.
Reply #5 of 10 posted 14 MAR 14 by CarolynB
That's good to know, thank you. As soon as I can figure out where to put one, I'll probably give this one a try.
Reply #6 of 10 posted 16 MAR 14 by Kit
In my USDA zone 10, Sunset zone 20 garden I don't have any problem with this rose sulking in hot weather, but I live in an area where the marine layer comes in most nights and with very little difference in nighttime temperatures through the year (avg. night temp is 42F in December and 52F in August), so the cool nights may be giving these roses - I have four of them in various exposures - a break from the heat they may need.
Reply #7 of 10 posted 14 NOV 16 by Simon Voorwinde
In the past I have been one of the people to have said that Rhap. in Blue languishes in the heat. I figure I need to update this. In Australia Tesselaar's released it ownroot and when I got mine ownroot I planted it in the ground where it grew ok early in the spring and as soon as summer hit it went to sleep and dropped all its leaves. After a few years of this sulking I yanked the plant out and to my surprise I found the most enormous root galls on it. It was as though the plant had cancer! Straight away I knew that's why mine does so poorly! It can get enough water to start ok but as soon as the weather warms up its compromised roots can't supply enough water to it so it shuts down. I decided to try and strike cuttings of it and some took. The best one was selected and planted out in the garden again and so far, coming into its 2nd year in its new location, it is a completely new plant and does not seem to languish at all during summer... so if your plant does seem to languish the first thing I would do is dig it up and check the roots for any reason that might explain it doing poorly. Then, if you find something like I did, strike cuttings of it and try again. It's been a few years now and the plant seems strong and healthy so I am assuming the issue I found is confined to the roots and making cuttings seems to eradicate the issue, though I haven't lifted it to confirm this.
Reply #8 of 10 posted 14 NOV 16 by Patricia Routley
Don't nematodes cause root galls?
However I have had the same experience. A small plant bought from Bunnings in 2002 never thrived and eventually died. A cutting grown plant in 2010 has done much better.
Reply #9 of 10 posted 15 NOV 16 by sutekesh
Galls are caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens found in the soil. Had two cases myself this year with huge galls at the graft just under the soil surface. After reading up on the subject, I destroyed both plants. I did think about taking cuttings but didn't - after reading Simon's comment, maybe I should have.
Reply #10 of 10 posted 16 NOV 16 by Margaret Furness
I was sent cuttings from an area that had problems with root galls. They all struck, but I unpotted one to check, and was concerned enough to destroy the lot. Have felt guilty ever since when I meet the donor - what if it was just callousing? - but I don't think so.
Discussion id : 39-196
most recent 15 SEP 09 HIDE POSTS
Initial post 15 SEP 09 by Rosaholic's Southern California Garden
This rose LOVES coastal California, especially with fog. Gets canes up to 10 feet -- treat it as a climber. Blooms all summer here, unlike warmer areas where it apparently takes the summer off. Disease free for me -- zero mildew.
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