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'Cinderella ™' rose Reviews & Comments
Discussion id : 74-254
most recent 23 JUN SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 26 SEP 13 by cafeaulait
Love, love, love her! In my NCz7b climate, she's a winner. The first year or so she had small blooms that were just cute, but she really comes into her own with age. It's funny to see bloom size change so much.

She's vigorous, spreading, and the blooms are just lovely. She is what the great pictures of Austins try to capture.

She's not continuously blooming, and until she gets mature she may have spurts of growth instead of repeat. Mine's 3 or 4 years old and wonderful now :) She only gets Blackspot very rarely in my no-spray garden. It goes away quickly, so I never worry about her.
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Reply #1 of 3 posted 13 NOV 16 by modestgoddess
Hello I'm in zone 7 Maryland. Can you tell me how large your Cinderella is and if it is own root or grafted? Thanks
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Reply #2 of 3 posted 8 SEP 20 by myd
Im in zone 7b in Maryland. I have Cinderella fairytale in a large pot. I have had it for 3 years. I got it from Palantine roses so it is grafted. It is about 4 feet tall (above the pot). I haven't planted it in the ground yet due to voles.
I have sprayed it with neem oil (I have been inconsistent with this), but I think I will stop spraying it with neem oil. The neem oil gets rid of the aphids in the spring, but in the summer this rose gets thrips. The thrips really affected a large flush of blooms this summer. I read that spraying for aphids in the spring means that beneficial insects who eat aphids will not come to the plant and those same insects eat the thrips later in the summer, or something along those lines. I am also going to plant more native perennials in order to attract said beneficial bugs.
This rose bush is very healthy. It has formed a very attractive shape. It's sturdy and holds the flowers upright. Also, the flowers last a long time. The flowers are beautiful. It has a large flush in spring and several smaller flushes afterwards. It looks very nice both close up and far away. Right now half of the bush is getting more shade, and that side blooms about half as much as the side in the sun. Consequently, I am going to move it completely into the sun. It has periods of times between flushes with no flowers on the bush.
I fertilize it with a diluted liquid fertilizer- either neptune's harvest, fox farm, or compost tea - at least 2 times a week. I water it every day during summer because it is in a pot. After a rainy period some of the leaves look yellowish, but I think this is because the rain washes the nutrients out of the pot. I never let water get on the leaves when watering it.
This rose has never had an outbreak of blackspot or any other disease. The main problem I have is with the sawfly larvae. I pick them off by hand every so often and that seems to keep it under control.
The fragrance of this rose is like a green apple. It's not a strong fragrance and not a distinguishing feature of this rose.
I think this rose would definitely prefer to be in the ground because it keeps sending roots out of the pot into the ground. I've read about planting a rose in a large growers pot with several holes in the bottom, and keeping the top of the pot a few inches above ground in order to keep the voles out. I think I may try that next spring.
6/24/2021- This rose continues to not succumb to blackspot or any other disease. However, I still have not been able to put it into the ground, and I think it is suffering in the pot because it is not very vigorous at all and is very slow to repeat this year.
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Reply #3 of 3 posted 23 JUN by ms_margaret
Mine is own root from Angel gardens. I've had it for probably 10 years. Given a good location, this rose can get 6' wide in the Southeastern United States. The bush is so graceful. It truly looks like a fairy tale.

At first I was wondering why it didn't have the globular blooms in others' photos. It takes time. She likes afternoon sun in Atlanta.

Don't plant her next to a sidewalk like I did. Bad idea. She's now huge and I don't think I'm going to move her. It would probably be easier to move the sidewalk.
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Discussion id : 105-353
most recent 6 SEP 17 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 6 SEP 17 by BarbaraG SE Virginia
Available from - Antique Rose Emporium
weareroses.com
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Discussion id : 55-697
most recent 3 JUL 11 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 3 JUL 11 by Simon Voorwinde
Lineage:

"Controlled pollination: seed parent unnamed seedling was crossed with pollen parent ‘Centenaire de Lourdes’ in May 1992"

Source: http://pericles.ipaustralia.gov.au/pbr_db/docs/2006100.doc
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 3 JUL 11 by jedmar
Thank you!
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Discussion id : 47-436
most recent 13 AUG 10 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 13 AUG 10 by joekoel
How can trademarks be used to identify roses in your Rose Lineage Information? Only the actual variety name identifies any rose. The trademark only identifies the origin of the rose(who produced it) and has no intrinsic relationship to the variety at all
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 13 AUG 10 by jedmar
You are correct in principle. Variety name (breeder code) offers a clear identification. However, practically no one outside the nursery industry knows or uses breeder codes when talking of roses in their garden. So, using trademarks (common names) is a more useful way in lineages for the overwhelming majority of users.

Older roses have no breeder codes, only "trademarks", i.e. given names.

Sometimes we use breeder codes in lineages, when these are based on patent information.
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