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Discussion id : 125-673
most recent 15 FEB 21 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 13 FEB 21 by peterdewolf
Hello folks. I'm building a little rose garden. I've got some gardening experience but I have two queries, hope you can help.
I began planning my garden last summer and as I'm on the coast I collected a large bucket of seaweed and began soaking it, adding mackerel scraps from week to week. It's now a veritable stink bomb but I've zero idea how to gauge my stink bomb soup to water ratio. I'd hate to overfertilise my roses.
2nd query concerns climbers. I've planted 14 so far. I've been swotting and read that the main canes should never be cut back ???? But I've come across advice here that does recommend cutting them back as part of a maintenance chore. I'm guessing if something is getting huge it is necessary sometimes. In that case should I choose an emerging lateral and train it to be a new main cane ????? Would that be correct, as I'd expect my climber to become a shaggy shrub if I cut back main canes
Thank you in anticipation ????
Peter
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Reply #1 of 9 posted 13 FEB 21 by ....
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Reply #2 of 9 posted 13 FEB 21 by peterdewolf
Many thanks for the reply. My climbers are as follows
Gertrude Jekyll x2
James Galwayx2
Pilgrim
Bathsheba
Eden x2
Candy land
Golden showers
Glorious gardener x2
Delightful
Scent from Heaven x2
Oops that's 15 ????
Plus 19 shrub roses, most of them David Austins.
I'd have planted more but bloody Brexit landed like a brick and now I can't even buy a packet of seeds and DA have stopped delivering to any EU country including my own little province.
My seaweed gunk is in liquid form, the weed itself has long since rotted away so it definitely needs diluting. ????
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Reply #3 of 9 posted 13 FEB 21 by ....
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Reply #4 of 9 posted 13 FEB 21 by peterdewolf
Thank you, I'll check out that suggestion. Eagerly looking forward to seeing and smelling these roses.
Peter
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Reply #5 of 9 posted 13 FEB 21 by ....
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Reply #6 of 9 posted 14 FEB 21 by ....
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Reply #7 of 9 posted 14 FEB 21 by peterdewolf
Read that, very informative and detailed. Where I live now there is a long history of seaweed harvesting, even 'seaweed wars', when the tides out you can still see lines of stones marking out the shore for 'ownership. Only a few local lads bother now, and it's for the garden, not commercially. He makes a Nice specific point, laying it on the soil but under a mulch so it breaks down into the soil, otherwise it dries on the surface and becomes hard and takes ages to break down. Great stuff, put my coal scuttle hat on now and head for the beach for a barrow load. Will defo take pictures but as it's my first year I'm not expecting a lot
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Reply #8 of 9 posted 15 FEB 21 by ....
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Reply #9 of 9 posted 15 FEB 21 by peterdewolf
I started a big compost pile last summer and all the household scraps except cooked food go into it, loads of egg shells, banana peel, tea leaves, leaf litter, 2yr old cow dung and seaweed. I dug out all my locations and infilled with my garden soil and my compost pile, so can do no more, it's up to my Austins now. Fingers crossed for a little good weather. Last year we had a blistering spring and a sodden summer, typical Irish summer.
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Discussion id : 114-678
most recent 30 DEC 18 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 30 DEC 18 by HubertG
I have a question that I'm hoping those people who have experience in raising new seedlings may be able to answer.
I have a few seedlings of tea roses that have recently germinated and I'm wondering how soon I can fertilise them, which fertilisers are best and at what strength? They just have a few true leaves, are still tiny and aren't really putting on new growth. I don't want to do the wrong thing and harm them. They are currently in a seed mix of perlite and peat moss which wouldn't contain much nutrient. It's midsummer at the moment here in Australia.
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Reply #1 of 6 posted 30 DEC 18 by Patricia Routley
I decant my seedlings into 6 or 7 inch wide (top diameter) pots. Once they have a few leaves, I feed with approximately one tablespoon of chopped lucerne hay, topped with the same amount of sheep manure. Repeat about every four weeks. Later, when they are really on their way, a quarter teaspoon of sulphate of potash.
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 30 DEC 18 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Hubert, they don't need much fertilizer initially, It's always best to err to the side of caution. I sometimes wait until they have true leaves to start.

I suggest quarter strength fish emulsion. Once they initiate true leaves increase to half strength and once they are hardened off completely and established full strength.

You can substitute original Miracle Gro at similar ratios, but I've found the fish fertilizer also helps prevent damping off early on.
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 30 DEC 18 by HubertG
Thanks Patricia and Robert, I don't have lucerne or sheep manure handy, so I'll go with the fish emulsion initially and try the miracle gro later. Is it OK to wet the leaves or best to avoid that? Also is seaweed extract beneficial since it's pretty good for most things?
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 30 DEC 18 by Margaret Furness
I use dilute Seasol on a wide range of things I want to grow roots. Re timing; you could also ask Andrew Ross (contact via the Ross Roses website) - he's involved with the Aus Rose Breeders' Asssociation.
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 30 DEC 18 by HubertG
Thanks Margaret, I might do that.
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Reply #6 of 6 posted 30 DEC 18 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Yes, wet the leaves. Nutrients can also be absorbed through foliage.
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Discussion id : 92-466
most recent 1 MAY 16 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 30 APR 16 by perpetua
Hello!I have a question about fertilizing.I use a liquid fertilizer 8-16-42(10g for 10L water) and another one 4-6-8(2caps for 10L) for my very young roses.My question is this-how much to feed one rose?I give 2L/rose bush and 5L/climber of the first and 1L for the very young roses.Is it too much,is it just about enough or is it too little?The amount of liquid indicated for one plant isn't specified anywhere..thank you!
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Reply #1 of 5 posted 1 MAY 16 by Give me caffeine
It's pretty much impossible to overfeed roses. They have huge appetites. As long as you're following the recommended mixing rate and not actually drowning the roses, it's unlikely to hurt them. I'd also follow the recommended frequency of feeding.

Amount of water needed will depend on conditions and on the size of the bush. Ditto for amount of food. In hot (Australian) weather I might throw 20 litres of water at a medium size bush in one watering, but they'd only be watered every few days at most. This is assuming they are in the ground, not potted, and are established.

In winter I might not water them at all for a week or two, depending on conditions. Easy way of telling is to stick your finger into the topsoil just beneath your mulch. If the top couple of inches of soil is feeling dryish, water them well. If it's moist, don't bother.

It's a good idea to not just rely on packaged fertilisers and to also give roses a nourishing mulch. Manure is great. Lucerne is great. Lay it on thick if the weather is hot. Roses like cool roots.
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Reply #2 of 5 posted 1 MAY 16 by perpetua
thank you for your quick reply!yes,I pretty much know how to water them in between fertilizing,it was the amount of water with fertilizer dissolved in it that was worrying me.good to know they are impossible to overfeed.
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Reply #3 of 5 posted 1 MAY 16 by styrax
However, this is not always true for species roses! Rugosas especially seem to resent fertilizer, and prefer manure.
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Reply #4 of 5 posted 1 MAY 16 by perpetua
Hello and thank you for your warning,but I don't have any rugosas,as I don't like them that much.I have quite a few climbers and hybrid teas,noisettes,bourbons,hybrid moschatas,floribundas and most of them are young,from 2 months old to 3 year old.
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Reply #5 of 5 posted 1 MAY 16 by styrax
I adore rugosas! The thorns do get tiresome though.
Bourbons are especially heavy feeder iirc. Good luck!
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Discussion id : 77-330
most recent 25 MAR 14 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 25 MAR 14 by julsz
I just bought a granular fertilizer with 14-14-14 label and another fertilizer that needs to be diluted in water with 15-15-30. Which is better?
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 25 MAR 14 by Patricia Routley
A really simplified interpretation of NPK. N = nitrogen (for leaves); P = phosphate (for roots); K = potash (for flowers). It depends on your soil. If you have an excess of potash, then 14-14-14 would do. Roses like potash and if your soil has a deficiency of potash, then 15-15-30 would be better.

I almost never use chemical fertiliser for potted roses. Too burny. I use lucerne hay topped with sheep manure, and once every three months perhaps, 1/4 teaspoon of sulphate of potash.
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