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The Montreal Botanical Garden recommends this rose as resistant to blackspot, powdery mildew, and rust:
http://www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/jardin/en/info_verte/roses/cultivars.htm
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#1 of 11 posted
1 APR 12 by
nurene
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mine got BS in it's 3 year - I pruned back a lot - but was disappointed.
Does anyone know what one can do about BS without using chemical poisons?
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Nurene, any recommendations for any disease resistance mean very little, unless they come from areas very close to you. I forget the total number of DIFFERENT types of black spot they have identified around the world, but we have FIVE different black spot races here in the US. For me to state a rose is black spot resistant in my California garden means virtually nothing to someone gardening across the country from me because we have different types of black spot. Few roses are as resistant to one type as they are the others.
Unless someone close to where you live promotes the particular rose as being resistant to the disease you're hoping to avoid, you can't honestly expect the rose to resist it in your garden. Add the special circumstances of your particular micro climate and even those which are resistant to your specific strain of black spot may not be able to resist it.
Many roses aren't as resistant to disease as they eventually can be when they are immature or have been pruned severely. They require decent culture, conditions and proper nourishment for their immune systems to function well, just as we do. Personally, I wouldn't prune any wood off the plant because of black spot, but remove the foliage instead. Many roses store nutrients in their canes for use later. By severely pruning them, you may cause them to be malnourished until they are able to replace those stored nutrients. In your harsher climate, where there can easily be much wood lost due to extreme cold or heavy snow damage, and more severe pruning required to winter protect them, you can much more easily experience disease susceptibility resulting from compromised immune system reactions.
There are a number of other rose growers here from The Netherlands who should be able to offer suggestions for which roses have resisted black spot for them there. Their experiences would be much more valid for you because they would be far more likely to be battling the specific type of black spot you are likely to experience. Good luck. I hope it helps.
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Great advice Kim! I live in NC and with our hot humid summers, the blackspot battles are ongoing for many of my roses. Modern roses definitely seem more susceptible to it than the OGR's. Some shrug it off if it comes while others need petting. I don't grow this rose specifically but totally agree that it's generally a better idea to trim off and remove infected foliage but leave the canes alone, especially during growing season. I've heard or read plenty of anecdotal evidence about natural or non-chemical BS controls but have had poor results without chemical treatments from time to time, whether spraying or using a soil compound in addition to good cultural practices.
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An example I can give you I've seen repeatedly here in Southern California is with Iceberg. You can force Iceberg to black spot by keeping it too severely pruned. If allowed to grow to the size the plant wants to be, the characteristic mildew on the peduncles is minimized dramatically, and black spot is virtually eliminated in many cases. Unfortunately, too often people whack the dickens out of them to get rid of the mildew and particularly the saw fly larvae (Rose Slugs) instead of using bacterial or other organic solutions. In these climates and with that particular rose here, eliminating the stored wood by removing so much wood unnecessarily triggers many more disease issues than would normally be the case.
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"Modern roses definitely seem more susceptible to it than the OGR's."
In my experience, I think this statement may be too much of a generalization. One of the reasons it seems like OGRs are more disease resistant to us, is that the OGRs that were more disease prone have dropped out of commerce, so the ones that are left and still available are the roses that have stood the test of time in many parts of the world.
Of course, there are other reasons, but this is just something to think about.
Smiles,
Lyn
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In many cases, that's true. Another reason is the OGRs which have survived, have been "rediscovered" in climates more suited to them. You won't find surviving, self sustaining, old bushes of La Reine in many areas of Southern California because it is so prone to rust and black spot in these climates. You can find old Teas and Chinas because they're suited to the humidity and heat. As with "natural, indigenous plants", they survive where they are best suited.
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Very good points Kim and Lyn. And, of course, there are many great selections of disease resistant modern roses.
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#8 of 11 posted
3 APR 12 by
nurene
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Thank you very much Rupert for the good advice.
I will see how it goes this year. The untimely frost really got to the roses (we don't do much winter protection here, since it doesn't usually get that cold and certainly not so late. - everything was already swelling and getting ready to come), so there is a lot of dead wood. I'll cut that back and maybe th frost was good for the BS?!
nurene
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"Good" for the black spot in that lack of nutrients can cause the plant to be more susceptible. I don't have any information that freezes kill off the fungi. It should be interesting to see how your roses do after this. Please observe and report back to the comments section here. It can be very valuable information to share. Thank you!
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#10 of 11 posted
26 JUN 13 by
nurene
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I had hardly any black spot after that heavy late freeze-up. I did nothing else to the roses, just good organic fertilizer and compost. So maybe the frost DID help?
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It's entirely possible the freezes helped, though it is also probably as much possible that the organic fertilizer helped bolster the plant's immune system as well as foster beneficial fungi growth which helped keep the black spot in check. Whatever it was, I'm glad it's working!
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How often does this rose bloom, just once in late spring/early summer, or more often than that?
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#1 of 1 posted
10 JUN 13 by
Hovman
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It blooms only once , but it has a long blooming period , more than a month , this is a huge rose. Enormous, and it is winter hardy. Needs plenty of Room
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I was shying away from this rose as I've had bad experience with Souv.de la Malm.......it continually balled and never opened in my garden. I was convinced to give this rose a try and I've got to say it is magnificent in all ways. Vigorous, floriferous, color, fragrance, disease resistance......and no balling.....no faults that I can see to this point. (2nd year) Highly recommend.
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You posts are very much appreciated.
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Michael do you use any pesticides on your roses? If you do, what do you suspect would happen with Mystic Beauty if you did not spray it to prevent black spot infection?
I've only ever grown one Bourbon (Mme. Pierre Oger) and it was a black spot utter disaster. If I understand correctly Bourbons don't have a good reputation for resisting black spot. (When it died one winter just a few years after I planted it I didn't replace it.)
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Very disease resistant here in coastal Virginia with no spray program.
Have had no balling problems either, much to my delight!
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Initial post
20 OCT 09 by
pem
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Why do some Kathleen photos show semi-double flowers + some show singles?
Thank you
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It's not unheard of among roses for the number of petals to vary from blossom to blossom, especially in some varieties. I have never grown Kathleen and so have no personal experience with it, but I wouldn't be surprised to learn that its flowers can vary from single to semi-double.
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#2 of 4 posted
17 DEC 10 by
pem
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That is interesting. Thank you. This Fall in Zone 7a Arkansas a pink camellia in our yard has flowers that are almost fluffy instead of their usual not very double. I wonder what pushes petal number one way or the other.
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I haven't ever grown camellias - :( - having never lived in a climate with a warm enough winter for them (& knowing I have neither the time nor patience to attempt growing one indoors), so I know very little about they whys and wherefores about how they bloom as they do (beyond knowing they like acidic soils in the same way that azaleas and rhododendrons do, even though they aren't in the heath family as azaleas & rhododendrons are).
As for roses (& this also probably applies to a fair number of other species in the rose family, apples for example), their genes often (USUALLY, probably) give the flowers not a specific number of petals that must be produced, but rather a range of petals that may be produced. With the wild rose species they typically have single flowers, and thus only five petals plus lots of stamens. However, some of the species (or naturally occurring hybrids, such as the White Rose of York) are semi-double (because some of the stamens have converted into petals), or have naturally occurring variants that are semi-double, or even double.
That genetic plasticity is what rose breeders play with, and sometimes the hybrids breeders create (all garden "varieties" bred by humans are hybrids of some sort or another) contain that plasticity within one plant, or even within one cluster of flowers.
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#4 of 4 posted
24 AUG 11 by
pem
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