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oakslesly
most recent 10 MAR 18 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 31 AUG 05 by Zaslawska
I have a climbing rose "Sombreuil" and would like to have one or two clematis climb with it. There are so many clematis to choose from! Any recommendations on colors or specific clematis that would complement the creamy white of the rose?
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Reply #1 of 5 posted 7 SEP 05 by The Old Rosarian
Because the colour of Sombrieul is a beautfull cream, you could put any coloured clematis with it. It all depends on what look you want to create. As you know there are three types of clematis in regards to pruning. Because a rose has nasty thorns, it may be easier to plant a class where you just cut the clematis off at the bottom every year, such as the vitcella group. Plus you get more bang for your buck with this group as they produce a greater amount of flowers. Also the flowers are smaller and so don't overpower the rose blooms. Here are a few sugestions for this class of clematis. Etoile Violette...single deep purple with yellow stamens, Blue Angel...icy blue, petals look like crepe paper, Mme Julia Correvon...rich wine red and Ville de Lyon...carmine pink. All these will grow without a lot of trouble. If you have never grown clematis before, then try jackmanii Polish Spirit, it will grow if you just drop it on the ground. The colour is a rich royal purple.
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Reply #2 of 5 posted 17 SEP 05 by Unregistered Guest
Thank you so much for your input, especially regarding pruning. There are so many lovely clematis - your comments will help narrow down the choice!
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Reply #5 of 5 posted 10 MAR 18 by REB
Thank You. Very helpful. I will try Blue Angel Clematis with my Pearly Gates Climbers.
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Reply #3 of 5 posted 7 OCT 09 by oakslesly
I am considering purchasing a climbing Sombreuil (sic) What has been your experience regarding frequency of blooms, fragrance, etc? I live in southern California. Thanks for your help.
Oakslesly
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Reply #4 of 5 posted 11 OCT 09 by Jeff Britt
I have Sombreuil (two actually) planted on a long pergola. In coastal Northern California, I get 4 to 5 flushes of roses a season. If you deadhead promptly, the flushes are quicker to come. The scent is lovely, a spicy and sweet fragrance that though isn't strong, it carries well and is surprisingly persistent. For my money, this is the best white reblooming climber there is.

And, I grow Clematis Jackmani and C. Polish Spirit up my Sombreuil. They look sensatinonal and I just whack them back to about 2 feet tall when I prune Sombreuil in January.

My only caviat with Sombreuil is it seems to be irresistable to thrips.

Jeff
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most recent 27 MAR 17 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 2 JUN 15 by Leene
I planted this rose as a band last July. This year it has tripled in size and produced about 20 buds which will probably open as soon as it stops raining! Constance Spry appears to be very hardy and vigorous in my Zone 6b CT garden. It survived a very harsh winter that killed my Zone 6 roses with little to no dieback. I have it planted against a fence and behind its parent, Belle Isis and they seem to be performing the same.

I was concerned that it might not bloom at all in its first spring, but it's actually blooming heavily. I wonder if its Gallica heritage means it needs a cold winter to perform?
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Reply #1 of 6 posted 2 JUN 15 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
"I wonder if its Gallica heritage means it needs a cold winter to perform?"

I had 'Constance Spry' here in my tropical low desert garden for several years.

The plant was huge, but it never produced a blossom.
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 3 JUN 15 by Leene
That's too bad! It is interesting, though...mine has been in the ground for less than a year and for its first blooming season it produced 22 buds on a 3 1/2 foot plant. We had a very harsh winter with subzero daytime temperatures for at least a month, which is supposedly not typical in CT but has been happening more often over the past few years.

I had been wondering because I've heard that certain Gallicas like Charles de Mills will not bloom at all unless they get a good winter chill. Since Constance Spry is half-Gallica I suppose it makes sense.

Sorry to hear Constance Spry didn't work for you! I'm technically Zone 6b but unless I want to lose plants I have to pick roses that are at least hardy to Zone 5, preferably Zone 4.
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 26 MAR 17 by oakslesly
I live in SoCal-- Ventura County, inland from the coast. Constance Spry has been on my arch for fifteen years and has produced maybe five roses. The other side of the arch has Eden and it looks great. Do I cut Constance Spry down to six inches next January, or yank it? I am zone 9.
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 27 MAR 17 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
She won't bloom on new wood. I'd yank it.
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 27 MAR 17 by oakslesly
Is this normal for a Constance Spry in Southern California? Any suggestions for a rose to replace it? I have Eden on the other side of the arch. I did slip a Viking Queen in next to the Constance Spry so as to get at least some blossoms. Not a lot of success with that after two years. What about Climbing Pinkie?
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Reply #6 of 6 posted 27 MAR 17 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Cl. Pinkie gives a glorious Spring flush but poor repeat.

'Renae' is a better choice in my opinion. Fragrant, repeats well and mostly smooth, and EASY to train.

Order from Burlington.
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most recent 26 MAR 17 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 25 FEB 04 by Anonymous-1486
I have a Constance Spry which has never bloomed. It is over two years old. Does this have to mature beflore flowering or am I doing something wrong? It is growing very nicely over my fence and has lots of leaves but I am getting impatient. I want flowers!
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Reply #1 of 2 posted 25 FEB 04 by Unregistered Guest
Constance Spry only blooms once a year which means it blooms on old wood instead of new wood. Do not prune the plant till after it flowers... even then, if you don't know how to prune a climber you risk loosing some of next year's blooms. On top of that, it's a climber; climbers usually spend the first several years building biomass instead of blooming. Give the plant more time. It's an added benefit to train the canes horizontally to encourage more blooms, otherwise, if allowed to shoot upwards, you will only get blooms on the very tips of the canes instead of the whole length of it. If after five years it still doesn't bloom, shovel prune it... either it doesn't like your climate or you're better off growing something less finicky. By the way, DO NOT prune it like a regular Hybrid Tea, i.e. cutting all the canes down to one foot every autumn, that is a sure recipe for failure.
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Reply #2 of 2 posted 26 MAR 17 by oakslesly
Just heard Dan Bifano speak and he said if a rose isn't blooming, try cutting it down to about six-eight inches in January and see what the new growth produces. If if doesn't improve, shovel prune and replace. He said he doesn't spray for any diseases and he only plants disease free roses. He's replaced quite a few of his favorites from the past with newer disease free roses that resemble the old but diseased favorite. His gardens are organic.

On that note, please be aware the dogs are enticed by organic fertilizers and will roll in the fertilizer as well as eat it. Our dog did both and we had a large vet bill for x-rays and monitoring. Had to use mineral oil with each meal and she finally passed it. Vet said dogs are not interested in non-organic fertilizers made of chemicals. BTW, dogs love to eat the cocoa mulch so beware.
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most recent 26 JUN 16 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 18 JUN 16 by oakslesly
After four years of fighting mildew--in dry southern California--- I am ready to shovel prune this giant. Nothing I have tried gets rid of the mildew. It's in full sun, is huge (six feet by six feet) and blooms constantly. Due to the mildew, leaves and blooms are stunted and unattractive. Suggestions please.
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 26 JUN 16 by raingreen
Powdery mildew may be exacerbated by dry soil (too far from spray heads, next to tree roots, etc), but I'm not positive on this (sorry). Heavy feeding with nitrogen may also exacerbate mildew, altho I'm not certain. Based on the 2 plants I've seen in southern California, Graham Thomas is moderately/slightly susceptible to mildew.

In my response you would think I'm a lawyer, but it's just hard to pinpoint causes/solutions to PM.
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