HelpMeFind Roses, Clematis and Peonies
Roses, Clematis and Peonies
and everything gardening related.
most recent 8 JUL SHOW ALL
Initial post 23 OCT 14 by Kit
Mine has gotten to about 3.5m high & 8m wide, after 3 summers in USDA zone 10, Sunset zone 20.
Reply #1 of 7 posted 5 JUL by SmallSunnyGarden
This is a very late addition to your comment, but I was wondering whether Clytemnestra repeats well in Z10? I see references to some of the hybrid musks being effectively once-blooming in hot summer/low winter chill climates. I'm looking for a small, well-scented climber that can take a little shade in z9a, Sunset z12.
Reply #2 of 7 posted 5 JUL by Robert Neil Rippetoe
You might try Renae.
Reply #3 of 7 posted 5 JUL by SmallSunnyGarden
I'll look into it--thanks! :)
Reply #4 of 7 posted 5 JUL by Robert Neil Rippetoe
You're welcome.

I grew it quite successfully here in 9b for years... smooth, makes it a joy to train and easy to use in close spaces.

Burlington offers it.
Reply #5 of 7 posted 8 JUL by SmallSunnyGarden
Thanks again so much. I've decided the space is small enough to be safer with a miniature climber (I don't want to overwhelm nearby plants). But Renae is definitely going on my wish list as I have plenty of other spots for full-size climbers here. Thanks for bringing her to my attention as I was completely unfamiliar with her!
Reply #6 of 7 posted 8 JUL by Lee H.
Be careful. Miniature flowers don’t necessarily mean miniature plant size. Ask me how I know ;-)
I grow Renae as well, and I would consider it one of my more restrained climbers.
Reply #7 of 7 posted 8 JUL by Robert Neil Rippetoe
'Annie Laurie McDowell' is a more restrained option.

She's very beautiful but flowers so heavily she may take a while to become established. She's well worth the effort.
most recent 27 APR 21 SHOW ALL
Initial post 12 APR 15 by Kit
RIP - shovel pruned due to irremediable rusting. Uniquely though often funkily colored, it wasn't worth the space or trouble as a landscape plant. Final pix are posted.
Reply #1 of 1 posted 27 APR 21 by Michael Garhart
Its quadruple linebred from Fashion, which has been an epicenter for passing on rust in roses from 1960 to 2000.
most recent 24 JUL 17 SHOW ALL
Initial post 6 NOV 14 by Kit
I'm posting a picture of this thing's habit in my So Cal garden. I planted it four years back, and everytime I think it's found its height it grows another level - here it is, having effortlessly reached 3m/10' of altitude. In my garden, the color is a little deeper than 'Sweetness,' which here is more reliably perfumed. My two year old 'Sweetness' is also bigger, both wider and taller (4m/12'6"h x 5m/16'w)
Reply #1 of 3 posted 9 JUN 17 by mamabotanica
Hows the rose since you posted? I am looking for a soft purple highly fragrant long vase life rose but it seems in my one 10b (Pasadena CA) garden this is not it! Hoping Barbra Streisand will fit the bill.
Reply #2 of 3 posted 12 JUL 17 by BenT_TX
I grow both Melody Parfumee and Barbara Striesand...Babs is by far the more free blooming bush for me so far, it is one of my most productive varieties across all colors. But I like the colors of Melody much more, it starts out more purple than Babs and ends up more lavender, Babs is too pink all the time. Both are very fragrant.
Reply #3 of 3 posted 24 JUL 17 by mamabotanica
thanks for the tip!
most recent 16 NOV 16 SHOW ALL
Initial post 12 MAR 14 by CarolynB
Can someone explain to me exactly what the term "sulks in heat" means (which I see for this rose and a few others)? What exactly does a rose do (or not do) when it's "sulking" due to heat?

I would love to try growing this rose, but I live in an area with hot dry summers. I'd like to have some idea what to expect before trying a rose that might do badly in my climate. Thanks for any information anyone can give.
Reply #1 of 10 posted 12 MAR 14 by Margaret Furness
Views of this rose vary widely. In my slightly-acid clay, with hot dry summers, it is cheerful all the time.
Reply #2 of 10 posted 13 MAR 14 by Patricia Routley
It is an English-bred rose. If the distributor says "sulks in heat" it means it won't flower as much as it does in cooler conditions.
Reply #3 of 10 posted 13 MAR 14 by CarolynB
Thank you both for your replies. For a rose this pretty and unusual, I could live with it not blooming during the hot summer, if it does that here. If it defoliates or gets a lot of leaf burn from the heat, however, that would be a different story. Any comments on that? (I had one rose that always looked nice in early spring, then always looked completely horrible with leaf burn all through the summer. So, I hope to avoid encountering that again.)
Reply #4 of 10 posted 14 MAR 14 by Margaret Furness
It doesn't defoliate in my garden, doesn't burn more than average. Your best bet is to find a rose nursery in your area that stocks it, and have a look at it there in mid-summer.
Reply #5 of 10 posted 14 MAR 14 by CarolynB
That's good to know, thank you. As soon as I can figure out where to put one, I'll probably give this one a try.
Reply #6 of 10 posted 16 MAR 14 by Kit
In my USDA zone 10, Sunset zone 20 garden I don't have any problem with this rose sulking in hot weather, but I live in an area where the marine layer comes in most nights and with very little difference in nighttime temperatures through the year (avg. night temp is 42F in December and 52F in August), so the cool nights may be giving these roses - I have four of them in various exposures - a break from the heat they may need.
Reply #7 of 10 posted 14 NOV 16 by Simon Voorwinde
In the past I have been one of the people to have said that Rhap. in Blue languishes in the heat. I figure I need to update this. In Australia Tesselaar's released it ownroot and when I got mine ownroot I planted it in the ground where it grew ok early in the spring and as soon as summer hit it went to sleep and dropped all its leaves. After a few years of this sulking I yanked the plant out and to my surprise I found the most enormous root galls on it. It was as though the plant had cancer! Straight away I knew that's why mine does so poorly! It can get enough water to start ok but as soon as the weather warms up its compromised roots can't supply enough water to it so it shuts down. I decided to try and strike cuttings of it and some took. The best one was selected and planted out in the garden again and so far, coming into its 2nd year in its new location, it is a completely new plant and does not seem to languish at all during summer... so if your plant does seem to languish the first thing I would do is dig it up and check the roots for any reason that might explain it doing poorly. Then, if you find something like I did, strike cuttings of it and try again. It's been a few years now and the plant seems strong and healthy so I am assuming the issue I found is confined to the roots and making cuttings seems to eradicate the issue, though I haven't lifted it to confirm this.
Reply #8 of 10 posted 14 NOV 16 by Patricia Routley
Don't nematodes cause root galls?
However I have had the same experience. A small plant bought from Bunnings in 2002 never thrived and eventually died. A cutting grown plant in 2010 has done much better.
Reply #9 of 10 posted 15 NOV 16 by sutekesh
Galls are caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens found in the soil. Had two cases myself this year with huge galls at the graft just under the soil surface. After reading up on the subject, I destroyed both plants. I did think about taking cuttings but didn't - after reading Simon's comment, maybe I should have.
Reply #10 of 10 posted 16 NOV 16 by Margaret Furness
I was sent cuttings from an area that had problems with root galls. They all struck, but I unpotted one to check, and was concerned enough to destroy the lot. Have felt guilty ever since when I meet the donor - what if it was just callousing? - but I don't think so.
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