HelpMeFind Roses, Clematis and Peonies
Roses, Clematis and Peonies
and everything gardening related.
Andrew from Dolton
most recent 4 days ago SHOW ALL
Initial post 30 SEP 18 by Andrew from Dolton
This rose is totally appalling for blackspot. I grow it as a climber supported on wires that way it has a better air movement and hopefully a little less of this disease as it chases the new healthy leaves up the stem. Other roses near by that wouldn't necessarily have gotten it have the disease especially on their leaves closest to this rose. I am going to move it further away into the wilder parts of the garden. Here its only neighbour will be 'poylantha 'Grandiflora'. However, despite being such a leper it has made some really good growth with shoots reaching almost 4M high. The flowers are so incredible it is worth any amount of ugly unhealthiness.
Reply #1 of 1 posted 4 days ago by veilchenblau
I keep reading your post and having a giggle (in a good way). As I did love Variegata at my last house, and am very very tempted to buy it again. But the black spot was shocking! And no, it did not seem to affect its growth, it got enormous anyway, it bloomed regardless, but then would completely defoliate and you were left with these huge ugly bare octopus canes....But one solution may be (as you say) to quarantine the "leper" to one end of the garden on its own...
And by the way, how is your variegata these days? Did the way you were training it help?
most recent 4 days ago SHOW ALL
Initial post 6 JUL 17 by DLEverette_NC_Zone7b
My GJ is being very stingy. Last year (first full season) I tried to grow it as a shrub rose and it didn't produce a flush but once. This year, I decided to let it grow as a climber so I could bend the canes to get more blooms. It did the same thing as last year - It bloomed once in March and just grows and grows without producing more blooms.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong here. It's a fantastic rose when it's in bloom, but it's not repeating very well at all for me. Any idea what might be wrong?
Reply #1 of 30 posted 6 JUL 17 by Andrew from Dolton
This rose never did well for me. However, last autumn I gave it a dressing of lime as my soil is rather acidic. I also gave it the absolute minimum of pruning. This year it is flowering better although because of the cool summers in my location it never grows more than 1 metre high, it is on laxa rootstock not 'Dr Huey'.
Reply #2 of 30 posted 6 JUL 17 by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
Everett: I look over your pictures of roses in pots ... I see pale upper leaves, that's typical of ALKALINE tap water, like my hard-well water at pH 9. For that reason I use vinegar & ACIDIC sulfate of potash & gypsum to fix my alkaline-tap-water and to force Austin roses to repeat fast. See my HMF profile on fixing one's alkaline-tap-water.

Folks in rich-minerals clay-region report Gertrude Jekyll repeats well, if pruned & given enough fertilizer.

Andrew is right about liming if the soil is acidic. Calcium is the building blocks for leaves, stems, roots, and petals. If there's tons of acidic rain (pH 5.6 on the west coast, and near 4 in the East coast) ... that also leach out minerals necessary for blooming. Like my own-root Munstead Wood in a pot refused to bloom with low-nutrients-LOAMY potting soil & tons of acidic rain. But when I put Munstead Wood in my alkaline clay (rich in minerals), it's pumping out 20+ buds right now 7/6/17 for 2nd-flush. To make stingy Austin roses to repeat bloom, a high-dose fertilizer NPK 8-20-40, plus lime (for acidic soil), or gypsum (for alkaline soil). High potassium force roses to bloom. High phosphorus forces more branching, rather than one-cane wonder. Low nitrogen helps to cut down the tall octopus canes (if grafted on Dr.Huey). Credit & many thanks to Perpetua in Romania who shared with me NPK 8-20-40 as the secret to tons of blooms.
Reply #3 of 30 posted 7 JUL 17 by DLEverette_NC_Zone7b
Thank you for the tips! I think you might be right about the soil acidity. I suspect the cause is the run off water from the roof. This year, I've noticed is that all my plants that get a high dosage of run-off rainwater from the roof aren't very happy at all. I lost a baby own root plant earlier this year and almost lost two others. I had a Lady of Shallot in the same spot as the GJ in the picture you saw from last year, and it was having the same symptoms as well. It's not as not growing or blooming much at all either (which is unusual for LoS). I moved it and watered it well and within a week, it started growing again like crazy.

Since I can't move my GJ away from the wall (apartment manager will throw a fit), I'd like to try a fertilizer like the one you suggested. Do you have any suggestions on a brand with that ratio that I can use for potted roses? Will the high numbers burn the roots?

FYI, my local nursery sells Jack's Classic bloom booster (10-30-20). Would that be a good place to start?

Thanks again for your help!
Reply #4 of 30 posted 7 JUL 17 by Andrew from Dolton
Your rose is growing in a container, don't forget that most roses, like Clematis, like to have their roots cool and moist.
Reply #5 of 30 posted 7 JUL 17 by StrawChicago Alkaline clay 5a
Everett: Just saw the pic. of your bush, looks good. I can tell the pH is acidic, from the smaller & spindly & thin canes. At slightly alkaline pH, there's more calcium & potassium & phosphorus for blooming. Just google "plant nutrients chart and pH level" and you'll see.

G.J. at Chicago Botanical Garden is pruned quite short (below my waist) but with more blooms than leaves. CBG has alkaline loamy soil (pH 7.4), and they recommend soluble fertilizer NPK 20-20-20 three times a year.

To force GJ to re-bloom: Any fertilizer LOW in nitrogen would do. Chemical nitrogen has acidifying action .. which makes the pH even lower with acidic rain. Dolomitic lime (calcium & magnesium, pH near 10) is expensive, a cheaper sub. is a 40 lbs. bag of pea-gravel (different colors) sold for $3 at local stores. Alkaline pea-gravel provide solid-minerals to neutralize acidic rain. In that assortment of colorful pea-gravel, the red/pink ones provide iron, the beige ones provide calcium, the gray ones provide magnesium .. but stay away from black-pea-gravel (high aluminum). Aluminum is toxic to roots.

The pea-gravel will neutralize acidic rain, plus provide solid minerals for blooming. Pea-gravel don't shoot up the pH like garden lime, it's a constant steady-release. If you have loamy/sandy soil, there's plenty of phosphorus, just need to aim for neutral pH (7) for phosphorus to be released. However, acidic rain does leach out calcium, potassium, and magnesium (in that order). Pea-gravel can add calcium & magnesium, but one still need potassium, either potassium chloride (very salty, but no acid), or potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash, 1/3 the salt, but with 21% sulfur). Only Amazon or Kelp4Less sell sulfate of potash, I like the sulfate of potash from Kelp4less better, it dissolves easily if sprinkle on the ground. Kelp4Less is free shipping. Years ago I posted a picture in HMF of Frederic Mistral going from 5 blooms per year to 40+ blooms in one flush, via sulfate of potash.

Potassium needs calcium and magnesium for best blooming. In hydroponic studies, the best ratio is 4:2:1:1, 4 part potassium, 2 part calcium, 1 part magnesium, and 1 part phosphorus. Rose tissue analysis done by University of CA at Davis showed similar ratio: twice more potassium than calcium, and much less magnesium and phosphorus. So either dolomitic lime (calcium & magnesium) or pea-gravel will help to activate sulfate of potash.

Also some Tomato-Tone (higher in potassium than Rose-Tone) will provide bacteria & mycorrhyzal fungi to help with phosphorus uptake. Espoma-Tomato tone is higher in calcium, sold for $10 for a HUGE bag at all stores (Walmart, HomeDepot, Lowe's). That has slow-released organic nitrogen, and doesn't lower pH like chemical nitrogen.
Reply #6 of 30 posted 19 JUL 17 by DLEverette_NC_Zone7b really know a lot! Thank you for taking the time to write that! I think the first thing I will do is test the soil, then use a low nitrogen fertilizer if needed. I'm gonna look into the pea gravel/kelp4less combo too.

As far as Tomato Tone goes, should I use the same amount as I would with Rose Tone?
Reply #7 of 30 posted 11 NOV 19 by happymaryellen
Where would one find 8/20/40 fertilizer?
Reply #8 of 30 posted 5 MAR by newtie
Cut it back in winter to 3-4 feet. It will they put out new laterals, get bushier and bloom heavily. This rose likes to be cut back.
Reply #9 of 30 posted 7 days ago by peterdewolf
Hi Newtie, are you pruning it as a big bush then, instead of a climber
Reply #10 of 30 posted 7 days ago by happymaryellen
My experience was this, when I used David Austin rose food, everything changed! I was so surprised! Healthier leaves, more blooms...and you only have to sprinkle it on the soil,it waters itslf in. Prior, Ihad used Maxsea monthly. But ehat a difference the DA food made! And no, I am not a pusher. Lol
Reply #11 of 30 posted 7 days ago by Jay-Jay
Even though, You're not a pusher. It sounds a bit to me as a conditional sale or tying practice... when the Austins only perform well on Austin's fertilizer.
As a climber, this rose gets spindly legs and only flowers sparsely at the end of the canes is my experience.
Reply #12 of 30 posted 7 days ago by happymaryellen
You may be right! I was just thrilled to find something that worked. I had a carding mill just failing and the food helped it enormously. The tricky part was last year they ran out of the food! So this year I bought extra early on so that I did not end up in that position. I’m also trying volcanic ash on some other roses just to see if that works. Always an experiment, right?
Reply #13 of 30 posted 7 days ago by Jay-Jay
What is a karting mill? I know what a carding mill is and used that, before spinning and twining wool.
Volcanic ash seems to me in use a bit hazardous for ones lungs. I use lava grit or lava meal for that purpose.
Or do You use it too smother the aphids too?
And about my remark... I meant it most of the part as a joke. Some Austins just do not perform well everywhere on/in the world and even Austin ruled out a lot of their older varieties and do not promote or sell those anymore.
At least some of the Austins perform well in my garden as for instance Constance Spry, the Mary Rose (and its mutations), Abraham Darby and A Shropshire Lad. The most perform in good years reasonably. Some perform bad: Evelyn and Gertrude Jekyll are among those.
Reply #14 of 30 posted 7 days ago by happymaryellen
Ooops carding bad... I wore a mask when I use the powder because it was kind of freaky. It’s called AZOMITE. And I decided to buy it and granular form after having the powder. It’ll be interesting to see as a sort of science experiment about whether it works or not. I have the Poet’s wife, the pilgrim, and Boscobel coming in. Our Rose Society had the lady who is the representative for David Austin the United States present for us. And she talked about how they have retired some because they’ve learned overtime that they were not top performers. So that was kind of fun to hear that directly from DA themselves. I’ve only been gardening for six years, and I will say that there’s just some roses that don’t work in my garden. For example I can’t get Mr. Lincoln or fragrant cloud to be disease resistant in my garden at all! They flower, but their leaves are horrible. It may have something to do with the fact that I am totally organic too. Oh, my Mary Rose was terribly unhappy...but the area got shaded by my mermaid,so, I moved Mary to a highsun place in a pot and hoping for the best. I give them two years...trouble? They are out! Lol
Reply #15 of 30 posted 7 days ago by Give me caffeine
Mr. Lincoln is prone to black spot in my area, so the foliage is often rubbish, but the plant is tough enough to keep going anyway. Best idea with Lincoln, IMO, is to plant it somewhere out of the way and just use it for cutting, and/or to plant more aesthetically pleasing things around it.

(I'm not fanatical about organic, but hardly ever spray things.)
Reply #26 of 30 posted 6 days ago by veilchenblau
"Mr. Lincoln is prone to black spot in my area, so the foliage is often rubbish" he tells me!! '(-_Q)'
Reply #16 of 30 posted 6 days ago by veilchenblau
Some of the ones they 'retired', like Constance Spry and Chianti , were top performers . IMO. We also can't get The Pilgrim in our part of the world, and it's a lovely rose that performed just fine here. So , you know....
Reply #17 of 30 posted 6 days ago by Jay-Jay
- What means "IMO". First time ever, I see this abbreviation.

- "Our Rose Society had the lady who is the representative for David Austin the United States present for us. And she talked about how they have retired some because they’ve learned overtime that they were not top performers." Some of those retirees perform amazing. Take f.i. a look at:
Combined with what was there originally in my HMF inbox:
"But the trademark ran out. So they discredit the old and push new stuff. IMO."

I heard the latter too from a seller and official propagator of Austin Roses.
When one reads the catalogues of Austin, this years' varieties are the best ever...
Most of the time no lineage and as for appearance maybe no improvement of the older varieties.
Maybe another new path of crossing and breeding might be desired?
Reply #18 of 30 posted 6 days ago by DLEverette_NC_Zone7b
IMO = In my opinion
Reply #19 of 30 posted 6 days ago by Jay-Jay
Reply #21 of 30 posted 6 days ago by veilchenblau
Sorry Jay Jay, I'm falling into texting language. Another one is IMHO (in my humble opinion).
Reply #22 of 30 posted 6 days ago by Give me caffeine
I notice that, after going on a wild ride with nicknames, you're back to being veilchenblau. It was exciting while it lasted. :)
Reply #27 of 30 posted 6 days ago by veilchenblau
virtually everything is a rose name anyway (which I was trying to avoid) I may as well just stick to being an old veilchenblau...
Reply #23 of 30 posted 6 days ago by Give me caffeine
It probably should be NMM for you. You could start using NMM just to wind up the Anglos. ;)
(naar mijn mening, if the translator is correct.)
Reply #24 of 30 posted 6 days ago by veilchenblau
I'll be using that from now on....
Reply #25 of 30 posted 6 days ago by Jay-Jay
The translator is correct, but the "short for" (afkorting) isn't common.
And luckily I had my caffeine today.
Reply #20 of 30 posted 6 days ago by veilchenblau
Austin's fertilizer is not organic - it says on its package that it is "organic based". Which means it does not meet the organic certification standards. Some of the components are organic - but not all.
Reply #28 of 30 posted 5 days ago by happymaryellen
Well damn damn. Bummer.
Reply #29 of 30 posted 5 days ago by veilchenblau
I'm sorry. I'm in no way saying it's not a good product or that you should stop using it, especially if it works for you. I'm just saying it doesn't sound like it's completely 100% certified organic.
Reply #30 of 30 posted 4 days ago by veilchenblau
And I agree with you maryellen, I don't like to spray either, and only buy roses that are disease resistant.
And I hope Mary Rose is happier for you in its new position.
most recent 7 days ago SHOW ALL
Initial post 11 MAY 18 by Dirk77
Hi guys,

I have a beautiful specimen of Golden Celebration in a pot and it's doing very well. My Question is ( for roses in pots in general): Should i add compost mixed with cow manure to fill up the pot? I've noticed that after two years the soil inside the pot is shrinking. Compost with cow manure was my first idea. What do you guys think?
Reply #1 of 6 posted 11 MAY 18 by HubertG
Hi Dirk77,
I grow a Lady Hillingdon successfully in a large pot and I have never repotted it in 20 years - it's just too big and heavy. I just top up the soil with compost and lucerne mulch each year. It works well and she seems to be very happy. I originally planted it with the graft below the soil so I'm sure it's on its own roots now. Your specimen is very beautiful, but I wonder if eventually you might need a larger pot. For compost I like aged horse manure if you can get it.
Reply #2 of 6 posted 11 MAY 18 by Dirk77
Thx Hubert for your response,

Eventually ill need to re pot it into a larger one but for the next couple of years the compost / manure mix seems the best option. The Austin's tend to do quite well in pots. I water them every day and once a month i give them a handful of organic mineral fertilizer. They seem to need lots of food and especially water. I always wanted Lady Hillingdon but I'm scared that the winters in Belgium are a bit too cold for her. Instead I've planted my garden stone walls with Etoile de Hollande ( first year now) and Mme Isaac Pereire. That last one is pulling of quite a show.
Reply #3 of 6 posted 12 MAY 18 by HubertG
You're welcome Dirk,
Lady Hillingdon is supposed to be winter-hardy for a tea. You might like to try the climbing form. If you look at the members' comments under Climbing Lady Hillingdon, jedmar says he grows it in Switzerland with some basal protection, so it might be worth a try where you are. The colour is richest in cooler temperatures anyway.
Reply #4 of 6 posted 24 JUL 18 by Jay-Jay
Marnix grows Lady Hillingdon Cl. in the province Groningen Netherlands:
With a very good outcome! For questions about growing this rose, You might send him a PM.
Reply #5 of 6 posted 24 JUL 18 by Andrew from Dolton
I look after a 'Lady Hillingdon cl.' for a lady in my village. I have trained it against a south facing wall. It grows through a terram membrane covered in slate chippings so the roots are cool and moist. It gets fed twice a year when I give it a scat of fish blood and bone. In these conditions it flourishes. It survived the winters of 2009 and 2010 when temperatures dropped to -18C. We also usually get cool wet summers too and it still grows and flowers well. On another cottage 'Étoile de Holland cl' grows very happily in this environment on a cold north facing wall that never sees any sun.
Reply #6 of 6 posted 7 days ago by peterdewolf
that's interesting, I have terram lying around, been laying cardboard on my soil then leafmold on top, might try the terram. I passed on this rose as I'd seen it with very floppy stems and you had to turn the blooms upwards to see them. I'd find that very annoying ;-) Good tip on the terram.
most recent 28 JAN HIDE POSTS
Initial post 26 JAN by Margaret Furness
I wonder if the label had moved. The shape and the persistent sepals don't match other photos on file, or what I see on my plant.
Reply #1 of 3 posted 26 JAN by Andrew from Dolton
Mine has larger, more rounded and fewer hips in each bunch.
Reply #2 of 3 posted 26 JAN by Patricia Routley
R. eglanteria ?
Reply #3 of 3 posted 28 JAN by Margaret Furness
Some hips on my plant do have persistent sepals, but they lie flat / tangential to the top of the hip, not extending forward.
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